Fabric With Memories

2014-05-28 07.41.19I posted last week about the fabric I bought in Germany last November and my lack of sufficient yardage. I pulled five swatches from Mood Fabrics and subsequently ordered “Chocolate Rayon Jersey” for the sleeves and pocket trim of Butterick 5925, View A.

2014-05-28 07.41.53I finished it yesterday morning, just in time to leave for a road trip to Western NC to celebrate my mother’s 101st birthday. I slipped it on for the Spousal Equivalent to see. He—who is usually rather quiet about my wardrobe—immediately said, “But you already have one of those.” Hmmm. What I have is a similar print in a very different top. But I should be happy he noticed that much, right?!

I have mixed feelings about the bands at the bottom of the sleeves. I’m wondering if I should have omitted them and just left the sleeves solid brown. I’d love your comments—love ’em or hate ’em? They’re just zigzagged into place, so would be easy to remove.

Here’s the review:

Pattern Description: Pullover top has neckline and pocket variations, seam detail, and shaped hemine. A: slightly draped neck and pocket bands. This is my second time with View A. Made a View B in a solid red RPL a year ago and it’s my go-to top!

Pattern Sizing: Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge) I’m 5’8″ and generously-busted. I cut a Large, adding 2″ to the length at the shorten/lengthen lines.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the style. Love the offset neck and pocket binding.

As I mentioned in a previous review, I found the pocket bottom to be challenging. I didn’t have enough of the main fabric for both pockets in this version, so just made one. I interfaced the hem of the inset/godet first, then laid the bound pocket on top of the inset, basted the sides, but also basted the bottom of the pocket to the interfaced hem allowance so that the basting would not show. Then I folded and pressed the hem allowance on the inset. I moved to the sewing machine and slipped the presser foot inside the pocket, sewing the inset hem from about 1.5″ in from either seam allowance. To clarify: the hem on the pocket/inset is sewn before attaching the inset to the front and back side seams, but I’ve left enough free so that I can sew those seams.

After inserting the inset and sewing the side seams, I [double-needle] sewed the hem from the edge of the pocket/inset around the back, the other inset, and the front, ending a half-inch into the pocket/inset. I had about an inch on either side of the pocket that was not hemmed, so just whipped that into place invisibly by hand.

I’m pleased with the result. The pocket bags down a little below the hem, but I didn’t have the bunching I experienced with the pocket/inset hem on the previous version.

I haven’t checked this theory yet, as I was rushing to leave on a trip, but I believe the pocket should be sized to the inset—should be cut the same width as the inset—not one-size-pocket-for-all-sizes. I suspect the pocket is cut the same size as the XL or XXL.

Fabric Used: A rayon/lycra (maybe rayon/poly/lycra) blend that I picked up in a department store in Frankfurt, Germany, while on tour last year with the Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus. Lovely memories every time I look at this fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: See note above re pocket. Interfaced the back shoulder seam allowance and the hem allowances with a lightweight tricot fusible interfacing. (A trick learned from Marcy Tilton.) Next time I’ll trim the pocket to match the inset.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably will make one more – in black for performances. Would absolutely recommend! This is a beautiful top!

Conclusion: Make it! Wear it repeatedly!

One more picture for your enlightenment, from the hotel bathroom.

2014-05-28 07.41.39

About Jan

Musician and geek and Juris Doctor; lover of fine art and fine craft; mother and grandmother and significant other and friend. Passionate about sewing.

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4 Responses to Fabric With Memories

  1. Gayle ortiz says:

    Great result, Jan! I like the bands.

    And I, too, love this pattern.

  2. Sue Parrott says:

    I like the sleeve bands. I think they give a ’boutique’ look. Love your fabric! I have something very similar to it but I didn’t purchase it in Germany.

  3. Janet says:

    I like the sleeve bands. I agree they make it look more – sportswear – rather than t-shirt. Definitely a ’boutique look’. Great fabric souvenir.

  4. Dixie says:

    Hi Jan! I found your blog through Gayle’s blog. I just made this tunic and the pockets puzzled me, until I noticed the bottom edge of the pocket is supposed to hang 1″ lower than the godet. Don’t know if that would make a difference in the way they lined up for you. I made an XXL and the pocket was sized correctly. So maybe the sizing is the problem. Maybe it was drafted for the XXL and not the other sizes.
    Anyway, I like your fabric choice, and the bands you added to the sleeves give it an extra punch. Nice job!

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