Done but not Completed

Mulberry1Here’s the top I finished yesterday. It’s another Katherine Tilton top, Vogue 8691.

I snapped a quick pic to send to Jas at work before I left to attend a performance of Mahler Symphony #2. As I was walking from the car to Stambaugh Auditorium, I realized I felt a tad exposed. I wasn’t comfortable with how short the front was. No, you can’t see my crotch, but it feels like you can. That just won’t do.

This morning I tried it on with my EF black slim washable stretch crepe pants, and didn’t like the look. That was going to be Solution Number One. But I prefer the look of this top with leggings, so I’m moving on to Solution Number Two: pool all my scraps from this top and figure out how to make the front “ruffle” 2″-3″ longer.

The fabric? Emma One Sock Mulberry 11 oz. rayon/lycra single knit jersey. Can you say heaven? This fabric is the softest, coziest fiber I’ve wrapped around my body in a long time. I want more-more-more!

Let me just tip my beret to Katherine again on this top. Those bottom “ruffles”? Topstitched into place! Brilliant!! No finishing required. And really, why would you need to? A) The knit doesn’t ravel. B) It’s at the bottom of the garment. Who’s going to ever notice that you have a raw edge there? NOBODY! The ruffle is constructed in five pieces. The back piece is gathered to make it ripple and flow as you walk. Easy-peasy construction.

The other feature I love about this pattern is the center and princess seam finishing techniques. Sew the seam once, press it open, then topstitch with double needle and wooly nylon in the bobbin. Cool look!

I cut a size 16 with no pattern alterations and love the fit—with the exception, of course, of the front length (which I wouldn’t have been able to figure out until I tried on the finished garment and walked around).

So it’s back to the sewing room, and I’ll post again when I solve this overexposure issue.

Love at First Sight

PurpleAbstractYou’ve seen two versions of this pattern so far (1, 2). Those were all View C/D of Katherine Tilton’s Vogue 8817. While I was in Santa Barbara for Design Outside the Lines, I saw two women wearing tops out of View B. It was very flattering on them, and I wanted to try it for myself.

PurpleAbstractDetail

I had seen a gorgeous stretch rayon/lycra knit on the Emma One Sock site. The print is a mix of large abstract and small marbelized pools. Just gorgeous! The colors called my name. When the fabric arrived a few days later, I almost purred as I stroked it. It is incredibly soft, yet stable. I didn’t have the layout issues that I have with a softer, lighter-weight knit. It cut easily, sewed easily, and finished up like a dream.

The way Katherine designed the front, it cups nicely, making a form-fitting—rather than boxy—top. The minute I sewed in the sleeves, basted the side seams and slipped it on, I wanted to shout for joy. This, my fellow sewists, is one nice t-shirt pattern.

Notice the inset in the back (in the top left photo). One could use a coordinating sheer or a knit lace, or a contrasting knit of the same weight as the body. Emma One Sock kindly posts virtual swatches of coordinating fabrics on each of their detail pages. So of course I grabbed a couple of yards of the mulberry rayon jersey. (No, I didn’t need two yards for that little inset, but tomorrow you’ll see the yummy tunic-length top of Katherine’s that is coming off my sewing machine today.)

I inserted a folded strip of the mulberry in the under-bust seam so that a ¼” peeked out. I used it also for the back inset and the neck binding, then zigzagged a band, per pattern instructions, about 2″ from the bottom of each sleeve.

Where the three tunics from this pattern will all go with leggings or skinny pants, this top looks perfect—to me—with my Eileen Fisher straight-leg stretch crepe pants.

Yes, it will be going in my suitcase.

And yes, I will be making more of this top. Another tip of the beret to Katherine Tilton for a design very well executed.

Sweatery Top

I needed some black sweater knit yardage for a project. I found and ordered this “Warm and Cozy Sweater Knit” on Gorgeous Fabrics’ extensive and well-stocked site. When it arrived a couple of days later, I quickly determined the color was not what I needed for the planned project and tucked it away for future use.

At the same time, while planning this top, I picked up a lovely piece of viscose jersey at The Cloth Merchants.

When I determined it was time to get the “Warm and Cozy Sweater Knit” off the corner of my cutting table, I laid my hand on the jersey and had an “aha” moment. I searched my pattern drawer, and came up with Loes Hinse’s Cowl Top. This was a pattern I had made before, years ago, and loved. And it was, in fact, one of the patterns recommended by Gorgeous Fabrics for this particular fabric.

As I pulled everything together and started examining the fabric closely, I realized, to my chagrin, that this was, indeed, not a knit. Where the fabric description had said “Please note: while this is a knitted fabric, it does not have a lot of stretch to it, so I would treat it like a woven.”, it was a woven.

I would not be deterred. I simply cut the cowl top in a larger size to allow for the lack of stretch, used the jersey for the sleeves and cowl, and forged ahead.

Once it was assembled, I tried it on and decided it didn’t want the deep hem, as I wanted it to hang longer on my body. I thought of binding with the jersey all the way around the hem, but realized that if I sat on a brick wall or a chair with rough edges, I would destroy the binding on the back. So I simply turned up the hem ½” and topstitched. Then I cut 2¼” strips of the jersey and bound the raw edges of the slit. My hindsight “oops!” is that I didn’t trim the ⅝” seam allowance before adding the trim. Oh well. “Live and learn” and other adages.

As I will be letting Ann Steves of Gorgeous Fabrics know I’ve written this post and referenced her site, I must state clearly and adamantly that this is the only problem I’ve ever had with an order from her store. Her fabric is the highest quality; her customer service is impeccable; her fabric and pattern suggestions are brilliant. I have shopped there since I discovered her a couple of years ago, and I will continue to shop there.

I’m all about learning, and this was just another learning experience.

Notes: The color in the photo of the collar is the truest to the fabric’s actual color.

I wore the top with the new Marcy Tilton gray slacks for photographic purposes only, so you could see the hem. I will be wearing it with black leggings and boots. And I’ll wear one of my Eileen Fisher silk knit tanks underneath for comfort.

I love this top! I have another piece of sweater knit that I got from Gorgeous Fabrics a couple of years ago stashed in the sewing room—it may just have to become another cowl top!

Gym Bags Aren’t All Big!

I spend Tuesday and Thursday mornings in the pool at the JCC Fitness Center around the corner from my house. First I take the class that’s designed for arthritis sufferers, then I stay afterwards for an hour of water volleyball and laughter. This is a volleyball game unlike any other. There are three beachballs in play at all times, and every so often someone will call out, “What’s the score?” Someone will shout back, “87 to 13”, or some other random set of numbers. We have great fun, and we get darned good exercise.

I don my swimsuit with shorts and a t-shirt before leaving the house, but need something in which to carry my underwear on the way to class, and then my damp swimsuit and swim gloves on the way back home.

I have made many, many of Nancy Ota’s Screenplay bags over the past ten years. I buy a roll of the screening at Home Depot or Lowe’s and dig into my stash of high quality quilting cottons.

I have had this “hog law” fabric since midway through law school. Its tongue-in-cheek sense of humor delights all my senses. I made a cute little pair of knockaround shorts back in about 1989, and stuck the leftover fabric in my stash, where it’s sat for 24 years!!

I was looking for a project one morning before I got on this vacation-garment kick, and saw those scraps. Voila! A new little bag. For me—for a change!

This bag is about 9″x9″x3″, has an outside pocket with a big black sport zipper, and has sturdy belting straps.

The unique feature to this bag, a feature I haven’t tried before, is a clear plastic inside pocket. The sewing room straightening project, which unearthed this piece of fabric, also unearthed one of those plastic bags that new sheets come in. I cut the existing zipper and seam binding off the bag, then cut two rectangles, zigzagged on a new sturdy zipper, and topstitched the pocket inside the bag. I love it! Why didn’t I think of this feature ten years ago?!

Of the dozens of these bags I’ve made, most have gone to friends or charity auctions. Only three or four, in various sizes, have remained for my use.

Every time I pick up this bag and look at that hog lawyer with his striped suit and red tie, I relive a piece of the joy of having achieved a Very Big Goal.

And I smile.

A Stripe Obsession

Have you noticed all the stripes in ready-to-wear these days? Every time I click on a website or open a magazine, I see a plethora of stripes, with lots of variations in placement and alignment.

I picked up this soft little gray and pale aqua stripe while in Santa Barbara at Design Outside the Lines. It’s out of stock now, but look at all the other sweet stripes Marcy has ready for your sewing pleasure.

As I’ve probably mentioned here before, I’m a tad busty. I always have a hard time getting darts to aim properly, even with an FBA, so I am in love with Vogue’s “Custom Fit” patterns. (Several other companies carry them also, and Silhouette Patterns carries an entire line of patterns where you can choose your cup size.)

When I saw Vogue 8831, this cowl-neck princess seam top, I quickly ordered it, thinking it would be great for the stripe fabric. I set out to make a mixed horizontal/vertical top.

<Note to self> The next time you ask DBF to take a picture of a top, don’t have him point up at your bustiness. Not attractive!<Note off>

My goal was to have the stripes on the center panels run vertically, while the side fronts and side backs ran horizontally. But I had to interrupt my cutting to go tend to some then-urgent issue, and when I got back, I was less focused. Oops. Once I started the assembly, I realized—to my HORROR—that only the side fronts were horizontal and all other pieces were vertical. As you know, the stretch runs horizontally, so I had robbed myself of the comfort of the stretch that is the reason we wear knits!

How could I save this? I felt I needed to build in a little give, so I cut narrow strips of the fabric with the stripes running horizontally. Then instead of seaming left and right backs to the center back, I seamed these strips in between the pieces, as a little extra bit of comfort. (Click on the photo to the left for a close-up view.) When all was said and done, I had given myself a little too much comfort, and had to take in the side seam/armhole for an extra 5/8″ at the armhole, gradually tapering out to the original seamline about 4″ down.

One other adjustment was to the cowl. I didn’t really have enough fabric for this top, so the cowl collar had to be cut about half its designed depth. When I put the top on, I was showing a little too much cleavage for my comfort. And the knit is so soft that the collar just flopped. Major décolleté! Since designers are doing so much pleating and tucking lately, I just made two little box pleats in the edge of the collar in front, stitched them down, and now I’m comfortable. It’s not a brilliant solution, but it’s a solution. And a learning exercise.

I have one more piece of a similar striped knit in a cocoa and pale aqua. I’ll make another little T to go with the cocoa pants when they’re done.

I don’t think France will be warm enough to wear this top, but summer’s a-coming!