A Second Bag to Meet My Needs

Alice2frontA year ago I had started a new job and was overwhelmed carrying my iPad plus binders of music back and forth from home to school. I made a Swoon Patterns “Alice” bag out of music-themed fabric to keep everything together and manageable.

Sidenote: As I was pulling the Swoon link for “Alice,” I noticed it was a free pattern. If you’re thinking a bag like this would be fun to make, here’s a great way to start Swooning. There’s a private Facebook group you’ll want to join, as Swooners are really nice people and sewists who like to share their knowledge and excitement. You’re welcome.

Alice2frontpocketWhen I made my first musical “Alice,” I was three months into playing from an iPad. I use the ForScore app and was finding it very easy to manage all the repertoire for several voice students, plus the Opera Workshop class I accompanied, plus the opera chorus and the Young Artists program of Opera Western Reserve. Alice seemed to be the perfect bag. (The other benefit of playing from an iPad and using the AirTurn pedal is I no longer need a pageturner. My left foot controls the page turns. Very cool!)

I followed the instructions closely and was pleased with the result. (Here’s my post for Musical Alice I.) However, once I loaded it with all my needs, the first problem was the stitches on the diagonal handles starting to pop. The second problem was that the increased seam allowances on the lining—to encourage the lining not to pop out—caused the top of the bag not to lie flat, but rather to pull severely to the inside. I knew if I ever made the bag again I would just use ½” seam allowances all around.

Two days before the end of the spring semester, I was walking to class with all my gear when the handle broke free from the side seam. At that instant, plans for a new bag began.

I had a Alice2Melangecool subtle musical/French fabric called Melange (Westminster Fabrics, Eclectic Elements, designed by Tim Holtz).

Alice2baseA road trip to Tandy Leather in Cleveland yielded some pieces of leather on sale. One of those, in a taupe-y shade, was perfect for the base and handles.

To supplement the Melange and leather, I dug into my stash of hand-dyed quilting cottons, which I’ve collected since around 2000. While living in Tucson, I bought gorgeous hand-dyes from Desert Dyeworks (who appears not to be making and selling them any more, but one can always hope …) and from Janet A. Smith, who had a website at textileart(dot)com. Alas, that site is now inactive, and I can’t find out anything about Janet A. Smith, as I’d love to own more of her beautiful work. But …, I did find a Janet Jo Smith, who is also a hand-dyer. Her work appears to be just as beautiful as Janet A.’s was. Check out DyeSmithy.

Alice2pocketlabelIn my TextileArt hand-dyes stash, I had a gradation of greens that went beautifully with the Melange. I used it for the outside pocket, the inside pocket, and the inside and base panels. I believe I used three different shades from the gradation. I love it.

Okay, my oopses, to give you a few giggles:
1) When inserting the exterior pocket, I was so concerned with making sure the size was going to fit between where I wanted the straps/handles, that I forgot to edge-stitch the bottom curve of the opening before finishing the pocket. I found a cherished piece of hand-dyed embroidery floss in a lush shade of copper and hand sewed the edge-stitching—¼” down from the finished edge of the opening, ¼” stitches with ¼” between the stitches. It was a happy fix for me. (Click on the second picture above where you see the straps and the pocket opening. That will enlarge the picture so you can see the hand edge-stitching.)

The Alice pattern illustration for finishing the exterior pocket clearly shows the top curves.

The Alice pattern illustration for finishing the exterior pocket clearly shows the top curves.

2) I wanted vertical straps supporting the handles to give more stability to my weighty contents. I positioned the straps in the center of the curve along the top edge of the bag. When the exterior bottom and side panels were attached to the front and back panels, the straps were caught in those seams.
3) When sewing the curves on the exterior bottom, I accidentally had part of the seam allowance of the leather base tuck under and I sewed through it. If you haven’t sewn on leather yet, let me warn you—those needle holes never close up. (Thank you, Photoshop, for letting me hide the holes on the photographs.

Only three oopses, and one “I’m thrilled out of my mind”:
Alice2stitchingA local quilt store (LQS) in Warren, OH, went out of business recently. As the owner was liquidating all the contents of the store, I picked up a new sewing machine. (That would be #4 in my inventory.) I told her I was having trouble getting my 20yo Bernina 1630 to do the edgestitching on bags, which requires even stitches through between four and eight layers of fabric. She said the Elna 720 eXcellence she was selling from her classroom was the perfect machine for my needs.

Alice2strapmusicThe closer I got to the last steps in finishing the bag, the more excited I was about trying the Elna on the top edge. Hoo boy!!!! Am I a happy sewist?! Yes!! That Elna ran the needle right through all those layers as if they were butter. Of all the bags I’ve made over the past ten years, this is the best finishing edgestitch I’ve ever gotten.

Alice2strapI’m over the moon!!

And as one more sidenote, machine #5 joined my little family yesterday. A local woman (who also happens to be a musician and who has a daughter pursuing a master’s degree in French horn at the university where I work) was downsizing and selling her grandmother’s Singer Model 201. Her mother had made all her own coats and dresses on this machine, which several websites tout as the workhorse of the Singer line. It dates from around 1950 (a good year), and is now visiting the sewing machine hospital in Warren to get a full check-up. What I hear from the Facebook group I’m in of Swoon Bag aficionados is that these old machines—long pre-dating all the computer stuff that’s in the new machines—are unflinching when it comes to top-stitching. Can’t wait to bring it home and try it out.

I’ve enjoyed these last few sews. Does summer really have to end and school begin again??

A Carry-On for Me

Carryon Bag CollageThis summer has been filled with carry-on trips. My mother’s memorial service near Asheville, NC, required a Saturday morning flight down and a Sunday afternoon flight back with a knit dress, a pair of heeled sandals, and my cosmetic bag tucked into a carry-on bag. The next weekend I flew to Dallas on Friday afternoon and returned Sunday morning—another carry-on trip with the same knit dress and sandals so I could play a half hour of old hymns for my girlfriend’s husband’s memorial service. And a fleece jacket and closed toe shoes so I could watch my firstborn son play hockey. This was a great treat for me, my first game since he took up the sport about four years ago. ashI also got to meet and be scratched and bitten by his three-month-old kitten, Ash, who’s got a lot of learning to do about bonding with grandma! The next weekend was another short trip, a drive up to Lake Erie to attend a friend’s son’s wedding. A carry-on and a garment bag sufficed for that trip.

I’ve been getting a lot of use out of my Cleveland Orchestra Chorus backpack during these trips, but it’s not chic. And the space inside isn’t great. I wanted a me-made bag that I could tailor to my own needs.

I had had a couple of yards of Cotton + Steel/Moonlit/Tangrams in Indigo hanging around for over a year. I got it in a kit from Craftsy, but decided I really didn’t want to make the dress from that kit. Sometimes the fabrics you get from Craftsy are discounted so deeply you just can’t resist “investing.” (My son always scoffs when I call it investing. He doesn’t realize how much money he’ll make on the sewing yard sale after I die.) I looked at the size of each bag on the Swoon Patterns site, and decided Vivian, in the traveler size, was just the bag for me. My objective was to make this bag without a trip to JoAnn’s for any extra supplies. Alas, I needed navy zippers, so grudgingly made the trip and also stocked up on interfacing. But that was going to be the only trip. (Oh, stop laughing.)

IMG_3011I put in the zippered pocket, and it was the finest zippered pocket I had ever inserted into any bag. Until I looked at the pattern again and realized it belonged on the inside of the bag, not the outside. If my knees weren’t so riddled with arthritis, I would have kicked myself! (Really—just look at that zipper. Look at the topstitching. Now it’s got to hide on the inside of the bag.)

So after posting and asking for advice on the Swoon Patterns Facebook group, I decided I would use a solid navy for the exterior fabric and choose a color from the tangrams for belting for the straps and handles. I was looking for canvas, but JoAnn’s didn’t have navy canvas and the nice sales associate directed me to the 100% cotton duck. Perfect! Looking at the belting choices, I selected hot pink.

A wise shopper would have checked her hardware supply before leaving home, but I was obviously not having a wise week. When I got back home, I discovered I didn’t have any rectangle rings. But I did have some nice D-rings and snap hooks. So I made the straps with D-rings and put the snap hooks on the handles. I thought about putting a long adjustable shoulder strap on, but refused to make any more trips to JoAnn’s!

IMG_3012One other addition to the interior was also a mistake. As I was assembling the bag, I found one more pocket piece, but could find no reference to it in the instructions. It’s fortunate that the bag designer, Alicia, prints the names of each pattern on each pattern piece. I’ve got a new music tote bag, Alice, cut out, and one of her pattern pieces got mixed up with my Vivian pieces. (Holy Mother of Lost Needles, if I don’t clean up and organize my sewing space soon, I’m going to have to impose some sort of penalty!) So I had a lovely little patch pocket ready to go on the inside of Vivian, and decided to use a little leftover belting to hang a keyhook from the bottom of the patch pocket. I’m great at losing keys, and this way I can hook them in as soon as I get on the airport shuttle after parking my car and retrieve them a couple days later on the way back to the car. Brilliant! (I left the photo clickable so you could see the patch pocket—I don’t know why it’s sideways. But you can see it clearly!)

What dummy bought the wrong kind of zipper?

What dummy bought the wrong kind of zipper?

One more giggle for you about this construction project. You know how on your suitcases you can zip from either end of the zipper and if your pulls are together, the zipper is closed?
But isn't that a great amount of space when fully opened?!

But isn’t that a great amount of space when fully opened?!

Then when you move one of the pulls, the zipper is open between the pulls. I thought that was the kind of zipper I got. Nope. I have no idea how this zipper is intended to be used (probably a jacket—duh on me!).

This was my first experience with Alicia’s “drop-in” lining, and I was very impressed with how easy it was to attach. If you haven’t used any Swoon patterns before, I highly recommend them for the clear instructions. Many of you know I had a long career as a technical writer and legal writer and editor. Alicia is an expert at turning sew-ese into clear, easy-to-follow instructions.

IMG_3022So that’s the story of the riddled with oopses bag. I wasn’t sure about the cording as I was inserting it, but once it was in, I loved it. I will probably make my own on the next bag, rather than using a purchased product, but I think this looks pretty fine.

And the finished bag. My new Vivian will be put into use in two weeks when we head to Detroit to catch a Louis CK performance and do some exploring for the weekend.
Finished bag

Blessed Sewing Time!

Vogue 6136Finally! I was able to sneak fifteen minutes here and a half hour there over the past week and get a tunic top made, clearing one piece of yardage out of my stash. I’ve rescheduled my life for the next school year, and will have three weeks in a row mostly to myself in late July/early August, along with a two-day workweek throughout the school year. My goal for the summer is to reorganize my sewing room with a major declutter. But this accomplishment—the new top which I finished today—just whetted my appetite. That was sorely needed!

6136The pattern is Butterick 6136, another drapey, flowy tunic from Katherine Tilton’s marvelous brain and imagination.

The fabric is a rare acquisition from JoAnn’s. (Rare means I rarely buy fabric there—it doesn’t live up to my quality standards.) I really can’t even remember why I bought it. I must have had some event or trip that I wanted a new top for, and then it didn’t happen in time. It’s a rayon/lycra blend with what is referred to as a “wet hand.” I don’t really know how to define that for you, except to say it kinda feels like it’s wet when you touch it. I imagine I’ll get some comments here to clarify that. I love the colors in this print—black, brown, rust, deep red, and a touch of olive green or teal tucked in here and there. rustThe photo from JoAnn’s website does not show the colors well.

What should I have done differently. Well, this fabric has a lot of stretch. The pattern envelope wants the sewist to choose a knit with just over 25% stretch. Grab ahold of the fabric with your thumb and forefinger, hands held 4″ apart. Stretch the fabric. It should stretch another 1¼”. This fabric easily stretches three more inches. Walking backwards through the cobwebs of my mind, I remember the Stretch & Sew classes I took when my boys were two and four years old and I made all their little tee shirts and pull-on shorts. If your fabric has more stretch than the pattern calls for, you want to go down a size or two—depending on the amount of extra stretch.

With this pattern and this fabric, I should have cut a 14 instead of a 16. Because I didn’t, the tunic hangs loosely on me. I think that will just make it cooler in the few really hot days we have every summer. At least that’s how I’m going to justify what I did.

I actually made a 3″ box pleat in the middle of the back, around the bra line. It shouldn’t really show, as drapey as this fabric is, and it should pull out some of the excess.

(After writing all this and after dressing for dinner, I ran downstairs and took another 2″ out of the left and right side seams at about the line of the bottom of my bra. Better. Not perfect. But not so tent-like.)

And next time I’ll cut a smaller size.

But now I have a new top to wear out to dinner with friends tonight. And that makes me happy.

Bali Ready

M7020-neckbindingAm I ready for next week’s Bali Fiber Tour? No, I am not. I have several pieces of fabric to make into cute tops, and I think they will not be made before I leave. And you know how obsessive I get about my travel wardrobes.

What happened, you might ask. Life and school happened. Back in March I had six mini-opera performances, preceded by several rehearsals. And I accompanied and played in the pit for seven performances of My Fair Lady in Sharpsville, PA. Then there was Cosi fan Tutte at YSU, which has taken part of five days of each week since mid-January. We finished Cosi the 24th of April. Then there was a senior recital to accompany for a trombonist. His program included a Very Nasty Hindemith sonata. Then, right on target, I got the text from my brother than our mother was failing, so the first week of May I spent two days driving to and from Hendersonville, NC; a couple of hours practicing with all my voice students for their juries; one day playing for juries; and then on Friday I flew to Vegas and drove to Kingman, Arizona, where I met my new sister. (If you’re not up-to-date on this tale, it’s written here).

M7020-sleeveOne of the sweetest two hours of that crazy week was the opportunity to substitute for the Stambaugh Chorus accompanist and play the Fauré Requiem with them, a precious-to-me work that was sung at my late husband’s memorial service eighteen years ago.

So … insanity around here.

But I managed to scrounge up fifteen minutes here and an hour there over the past 10 days to finish one top for the trip. The pattern is McCall’s 7020, which I’ve made three times already. Those posts are here.

Backview, showing different stripe widths and orientations.

Backview, showing different stripe widths and orientations.

The fabric was one of MarcyTilton.com‘s “Cool Combos.” Marcy’s exquisitely curated site makes some really fabulous fabrics available to the home sewist. The combo I picked up was gray and white – a quarter inch stripe, a skinny stripe, both in very lightweight jersey. Then a heavier jersey printed with small white dots. I decided to use just the stripes for this top. Both fronts and one back were made from the wider stripe, the other back and the sleeves from the skinny stripe. And they were alternated horizontal/vertical on each piece—i.e. right front and left back stripes go up and down, left front and right back go side to side.

This pic should prove how lightweight the knit is. Yes, I will wear a tank under it!

This pic should prove how lightweight the knit is. Yes, I will wear a tank under it!

This was not a knit with a lot of give, so when I tried it on after applying the sleeves and sewing the side seams, the sleeves were too tight. I tried taking a narrower seam allowance, but they were still too tight. So I just cut the sleeves off, leaving 1″ of sleeve fabric. Then I cut ⅜” strips of fusible tricot interfacing, fused it on, folded, pressed, and double-needle topstitched. The hem was finished with the same method, 1¼”

I love it. What do you think?

And it’s super-duper cool for the heat and humidity of my Bali adventure. My flight lands in Depensar on Saturday afternoon, May 21.

Worn here with a pair of Eileen Fisher stretch crepe crops in "silver." I think the top would go just as well with white.

Worn here with a pair of Eileen Fisher stretch crepe crops in “silver.” I think the top would go just as well with white.

En Fran├žais

imageThe good news is I finally found some time, amid all my music-making, to get back into my sewing room. The bad news is this garment will probably never be worn again after its two minutes on the runway.

You may remember my posts in the past about my many enjoyable sewing experiences with my heart-of-my-heart grandson, Boston. Just to clarify: He now prefers to be known as Celeste and referred to with feminine pronouns. So here we go …

Belt with French-ish metal rose buckle. Denim casing with 1-1/2" elastic threaded through.

Belt with French-ish metal rose buckle. Denim casing with 1-1/2″ elastic threaded through.

I always feel elated when Celeste texts me and says she has a sewing project she wants to work on with me. So while my initial reaction to her text the day before her spring break was elation, my next thought was WHAT?!

Celeste enjoys her French class at Ursuline, but this practical if cynical grandma is questioning the real benefit of the project their teacher assigned to tide them over for spring break. (Wait. Isn’t spring break supposed to be about the break?)

Company logo

Company logo

Here’s the way I understood this project: The students were each to come up with a concept and a name for a fashion company, create some designs, create a look book, then make one of the garments, which would be presented during a class-time fashion show the Friday of the week after spring break.

Huh?

Hem - interfaced with 5/8'  strip of fusible tricot, then folded, pressed, and 3x to-stitched.

Hem – interfaced with 5/8′ strip of fusible tricot, then folded, pressed, and 3x to-stitched.

Celeste named her company L’Usine de Denim. It would be garments and accessories made from denim. Her first designs were a sleeveless shift dress with belt and a hairbow. (At this point in her personal discovery, she’s all about the bows.)

Armholes with bias binding sewn on, then folded to inside and 3x top stitched.

Armholes with bias binding sew on, then folded to inside and 3x top stitched.

We talked about how to proceed. I searched through my pattern stash, chose the Textile Studio Basic Dress as something easily customizable, and then headed to JoAnn’s, where I spent $36 (!) on fabric, thread, a zipper, and thread. [I’m the grandma; I’m at a point in my life where I have some disposable income. What about these parents who are paying to put their kids in parochial school and they have other kids at home and typical family expenses. How tough to have their kids assigned a project such as this where they’ve got to spend time and money to accomplish it. I’m shaking my head ….]

Neckline, bound with bias denim strip.

Neckline, bound with bias denim strip.

Celeste had chosen or been assigned a model for the fashion show, and I had no idea of her size. How could I make a dress for an unknown body? And the model didn’t know her measurements. The most I could learn was her bra size, from which I discerned her “full bust” size. I grabbed an old sheet from my “rag bag,” an extra zipper from the stash, and quickly made up a “muslin” Celeste could take to her model for her to try on. I heard back from her on Monday afternoon that the size was okay, although it needed to be shortened, as she’s only 5’1″.

I finished the dress Wednesday night, whipped up the belt after my opera rehearsal on Thursday, and ran it to Celeste’s house. I’m still waiting for a picture from the fashion show and reassurance that all was well.

P.S. Friday afternoon report: The model was sick today, so another, much smaller girl wore the dress for presentation. These model for whom the dress was made will be there on Monday to wear it. I am told there were lots of compliments on our work. Yea.

P.S. Monday morning report: The model made it in today, and Celeste took a photo for me. I think the dress looks pretty darned good on her, for my only having known her bra size and height!! Happy Grandma.
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