Vacation = Must Sew

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Butterick 6101As I write this post, it’s 32° outside and the snow is falling. We’re slated to accumulate about three inches today. So why am I sewing summer clothes and wearing sandals? Because next week is vacation in Mexico—yippee!!

For me, vacation has always meant new clothes. I don’t know why. And when I have drawers full of perfectly suitable clothes, I always feel I need something new. Okay, truth: I want something new.

Everytime Marcy Tilton and Katherine Tilton design new garment patterns for Vogue and Butterick, I snatch them up. I had picked up Katherine’s Butterick 6101 the moment it hit my inbox – so many possibilities.

B6101-backThe fabric came from the Bernina Store in Twinsburg, OH. When the owner went to quilt market in Pittsburgh last year, a jobber said “psst!” to her outside his truck in the parking lot of the hall, and she bought a small stash of apparel fabric for her quilting store. I’ve picked up a few of them, and this gray print with mauve undertones was one. I believe it’s a rayon/lycra blend, but with purchases like this, you can’t really be sure.

The pants were snagged up when Naturals Inc. in Oregon had an after-Christmas sale and sent me a coupon for an extra 25% off. How could I resist? I don’t love shorts and I do love Eileen Fisher, so these slim capris became mine. But when they arrived, I immediately thought, “I have nothing to go with that silver.” So I went shopping in my stash and this is what happened.

Here’s the review:

B6101-sidePattern Description: From the pattern back: Loose fitting pullover tunics have collar, left side pocket detail, sleeve variations, hem band and top stitching. C: contrast right front, left front, left front and back pocket, armhole facing, hem band, left pocket and right inside pocket. D:contrast collar, right sleeve, left front, back pocket and right inside pocket. I made version A.
Designed for lightweight woven and stable knit fabrics.

Pattern Sizing: Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge)
I made a Large. I usually add 2″-3″ to the torso or length of Katherine’s designs, but cut this one as printed.

B6101-bigpocketDid it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Some of the instructions were a struggle. In talking to various friends who are designers, I understand that pattern companies have their own ways to express things and sometimes what the designer writes as instructions doesn’t make it into the pattern.

That said, I found the hems challenging. The illustrations were made to look like you could just put a binding on it – specifically the Lower Left Back and Lower Left Front. This insert is not straight across the bottom (as indicated in the illustration), but looks more like a large shallow scallop. I ended up turning up the hem edge 5/8″ and then top-stitching with a double needle.

There were times I had to read the instructions for a step several times and then stop and try to picture it in my head before proceeding.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like: Another lovely Katherine Tilton top.
Dislikes: 1) That funky little pocket on the left side. Gotta figure out how to omit that next time. 2) The hem problems.

Little pocket, in center of photo

Little pocket, in center of photo

(And after trying the top on with designated slacks and tank to take pictures for the blog, I find I love the funky little pocket. Will not be omitting!!)

Fabric Used: This is a mystery from a jobber, but I think it’s rayon/lycra. It’s a very lightweight, almost meshy fabric that flows nicely.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I interfaced all the hems and the back shoulder seams with a tricot interfacing. I learned this from Marcy Tilton and use that tip on every knit top to stabilize the shoulders and to make the hems so much easier to turn and double-needle topstitch.

IMG_8819On the right side seam, the illustration shows opening up the basted hem and sewing to the bottom, then turning up the hem. As with my comments about the left side seam, the right side is not straight across. It’s a shallow scallop (for lack of a better explanation). I left the hem turned up, then sewed to the bottom, then topstitched along the top of the hem allowance across those folded edges to hold in place. Then I double-needle stitched all the way around the hem. (Please leave a comment if this doesn’t make sense to you. I’ll also put a close-up picture on my blog to better illustrate.)

B6101-armholeWould you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably, with some changes. I think I’ll make a regular facing for the Lower Left Back/Front rather than trying to bind or just turn up. I’d be much happier with that finished result, I imagine. Also need to tweak the pattern to decrease the size of the armhole—too much gapage.

Conclusion: Another unique top from Katherine Tilton. Very flowing and flattering. Great for next week’s snow-fleeing vacation in Mexico.

I think this is one of those tops that I’m going to grow to love more and more as I wear it. The fabric is very comfortable, and I think I’ll be happy I have it as we’re walking around Tulum next week.

Take care of the snow until we return. 🙂

Thick and Thin

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2015-01-14 20.04.20It’s pretty sad when the lack of two tassels keeps you from wearing something for almost a year! In my so-far-successful effort to finish everything I start, I made two tassels this week and have worn my new scarf twice. And I love it!

The scarf in question is the Tilled Scarf by Quirky Bird Knits. The yarns are Malabrigo Rasta in color number 866, Arco Iris, and Malabrigo Silkpaca in color number 96, Sunset.

2015-01-14 11.53.41The pattern calls for one skein of each yarn. At the end I ran out of the Rasta, so didn’t have enough for the tassels. (On rereading the pattern, I think I used a single strand of the Silkpaca, rather than holding it doubled throughout. Oh well.) I pondered a long time what to do about the tassels. I didn’t want to buy a $22 skein of yarn just to have enough for two tassels.

2015-01-14 11.52.56There’s a lovely little needlework store name With Needle in Hand in Boardman. I took the finished scarf there and examined each rack and every yarn. Finally I decided on two hand-dyed silk ribbons to pair with the leftover Silkpaca. I got the 7mm ribbon in Gidgee and the 4mm ribbon in Jindalee or Tea Tree. I wrapped the lengths of ribbon and silk/alpaca yarn over the tails of the Rasta that were hanging from each end of the scarf, wrapped and tied the tassels with the Silkpaca tails, and – scarf all done!

In retrospect, I should have ironed the ribbon first …. When I put the scarf on for its second wearing, I realized I had dripped Balsamic vinegar dressing on the tassel at dinner on Saturday night. I rubbed the affected ribbons with water and a little hand soap, gently rinsed the affected ribbons, and used my flatiron to press them. Inspired, I thought.

2015-01-14 11.54.10The hardest thing about this scarf was the switching from very thick to very thin on each set of rows. It required a lot of deft holding to maintain tension in the yarns. (Click the pic to view the difference in the yarns close up.)

And the result? Worth all the effort. I love this scarf and have gotten many compliments and queries about it with each wearing.

Purchased as a kit from Knitter’s Mercantile of Columbus at the 2013 “A Knitter’s Fantasy” show in Youngstown.

Gayley Girl Gift

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gaylebagMy New Year’s resolution is to have only one project going at a time. And that translates to “finish what you start.” I can be a tad ADD, i.e. “Look at that pretty piece of fabric; I think I’ll sew that today.” And my Very Bad Habit is to throw each new pretty thing onto my cutting table. And the mess begins. If I can stick to my resolution—and 15 days into the year (half a month gone already?!), so far/so good—I can get rid of the clutter and mess and feel more at peace in my little basement haven.

Jas and our travel pals and I had the most wonderful NoCal vacation in September. And one of the best memories is of a sidetrip to Capitola and lunch with one of my cyberfiberfriends, Gayle.

To say Gayle offered us lunch is an understatement. Gayle was incredibly generous and opened her home to us and shared herself and her talents (and her very talented and musical husband). I wanted to return her gift in kind.

Gayle sews – beautifully. So what could I make to say “thank you” that wasn’t something she could make for herself? The answer came as two lightbulbs went off in my head.

Lightbulb #1: While working at the Bernina store, one of my tasks was to arrange all the store samples of bags and accessories onto a wall. One of the bags was the Amy Butler Reversible Sunday Sling. This is a cool bag—verrry large and perfect for carrying a stash of fabric to a class or a lunch-worth of veggies from the farmer’s market. And did I mention big? The pattern has two sizes and I chose the larger one.

I’ve made a number of bags, but I’m never content with the weight of the bag. By weight, I mean the way it will stand when you place it on a table or the floor. I have yet to find the interfacing or inner construction that makes me happy. Amy Butler and her team have hit a home run with this bag, IMHO.

Lightbulb #2: On the shelf at the Bernina store, I found the perfect fabric to craft this bag for the consummate foodie. The exterior would be Makower “Cook’s Kitchen,” the interior would be Timeless Treasures’ “Gorgeous Gourds,” with a little accent of P&B Bear Essentials Two Green Bubbles.

Cook's Kitchen

Cook’s Kitchen
Gorgeous Gourds

Gorgeous Gourds
Green Bubbles

Green Bubbles

Here’s the review:

Pattern Description: “Stylish & sweet and easy to sew! This reversible modern design is great for beginners – with simple, large pockets, tie handles and pleats. This gorgeous bag makes every day as easy as Sunday.” (From pattern page on Amy Butler website)

Pattern Sizing:
Small Sling – 18” wide x 14 1/8” tall (28” tall with Handles) x 3 1/4” deep
Large Sling – 23” wide x 16 1/8” tall (30” tall with Handles) x 4” deep

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but verbose. A lot of reading.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Loved the stiff interfacing in the base. A sturdy and well-designed bag.
The downside is how difficult it is to turn rightside-out when you’ve finished attaching the inside to the outside. Because you’ve got layers of batting and interfacing and stiffener for the bottom, plus layers of pockets, you’ve got a lot of fabric to pull through that small hole. Take a deep breath and take your time.

Fabric Used: 100% Cotton (see my website for exact fabrics)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Changed up the pockets somewhat. On one of the outside pockets I added a contrast binding. On the inside big pocket, I added two zippers. I made the tuck in the cell phone pocket smaller, as phones have increased in size since the pattern was designed.
For the handles, I cut four of the inside fabric and four of the outside, as I liked the look of the handle matching whichever side is out.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I bought enough batting and interfacing to make another for myself, but am not giving it a high priority, as it was a lot of work! (But so worth it — conflicting emotions!)

Conclusion: Great tote bag, nice design, clear instructions. Makes a wonderful gift for someone you really like.

A few more pictures. The bag will go into the mail on Monday. Jas looked at it again as he left for work this morning and said, “Gayle is going to love that bag!”

Bag front, full view

Bag front, full view
Outside, back view. Contrast trim on large exterior pocket.

Outside, back view. Contrast trim on large exterior pocket.
Inside, look closely to see the cell phone pocket.

Inside, look closely to see the cell phone pocket.
Inside, full-width pocket, seam up the middle to create two pockets, each with zipper closure.

Inside, full-width pocket, seam up the middle to create two pockets, each with zipper closure.

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

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Brrr!It took the winter of 2014/15 a little while to set it, but it’s here now. Boy, is it here. The temperature for much of yesterday was right around 0°, with wind chill temps in the minus-teens. Tomorrow the wind chill temp is supposed to drop to about -24°. One does not go outside without gloves, even just to take the bag of used kitty litter to the garbage can! (TMI? Sorry!)

At the Bernina/quilt store where I work worked until noon today, we’ve had two shelves of Shannon Cuddle just lingering on the shelves. Shoppers would come in and say how soft and lovely it was, but then move on to other fabrics. As I wrote yesterday regarding the Cuddle infinity scarf, there were bits of it going to new homes, but much of it is still on the shelf.

When I picked up the Winter issue of Stitch Magazine, and saw this cuddly lounging jacket made from Shannon Cuddle, I felt inspired. Taking advantage of the employee discount at the Bernina Store, I bought enough to make a jacket for my DIL-Equivalent and one for myself.

Here’s hers:
IMG_8720The reversible jacket requires about 2¾ yards of two colors of microfiber fleece. For Leslie, who lives in Amarillo and whose family has a long history of ranching and farming, one of the sides had to be “My Lil’ Buckaroo” in camel. For the outside, I chose Cuddle Embossed Vine in brown.

When I laid the pattern out to cut the fabric, I discovered an error in the pattern. I wrote to the designer and got a quick response, ensuring me that the error was the publisher’s, not hers, and that the publisher had agreed to fix it and reload the PDF pattern.

Jacket backThe pattern is marked “one size fits all,” but I beg to differ. Really, one size fits up to about a normal size 14, and that’s snug in the sleeves. On Leslie’s version, I had to take scant ½” seams and the sleeves still were probably too tight to wear a t-shirt under the jacket. On mine, I will try adding a bit to the shoulder seam and slash-and-spread the sleeve to give myself more room.

HoodMy only other complaint is the lack of a “sew here” button marking. I sewed those buttons on three times and still wasn’t happy with the placement and the way the jacket falls in the front. I doubt I will ever wear it out in public. This jacket—for me—is going to be something I wear in my drafty old (1927) house to stay warm in these brutal and long NE Ohio winters.

And how cute is this hood? Very! Now to finish one outstanding project downstairs so I can cut into the black classic and ivory vine Cuddle yardage that’s waiting for me in the sewing room.

Edited 1/12/2015

Note: I’ve exchanged several emails with designer Cheryl Bush regarding problems I had or errors I discovered with this pattern. Here are her comments:

The sizing should be marked S-L (One Size Fits Most between sizes 0-14).

To determine the best placement for the shoulder buttons, try jacket on at when completed. Smaller sizes should sew a button onto one side of the front, about 1 inch in front of the armscye, just under the hood seam. Larger sizes may prefer buttons to be 2 to 3 inches below the shoulder seam for a roomier fit. Do the same on the opposite shoulder, but this time on the inside lining.

If you find tacking the neck seam together after sewing the inside and outside together, you might sew the hood seam together from the outside as invisibly as possible for about an inch at the center back.

Cheryl noted “This is content that was included in the submission to Stitch Magazine, but omitted by the editor.”

Thank you, Cheryl! I’ll look forward to trying more of your patterns.

For Gifts and For Me

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CowlOne morning about two weeks before Christmas, I walked into the Bernina store where I work and noticed several women lined up holding bolts of Shannon Cuddle, a microfiber fleece. Benartex makes a similar fabric named Minkee. I believe Minkee has been around longer and is more well known. The variety of microfiber fleece that people are most familiar with is the dimpled version, frequently used in making baby blankets.

IMG_8617My coworker had seen a video for an infinity scarf over the weekend and made one out of Cuddle. It was so beautiful that everyone in the store wanted one for herself and one for her best friend.

The video linked above shows the scarf made out of a lightweight wool and in greater dimensions. My coworker had modified the instructions just a little, but the scarves were perfect in the Cuddle.

Here are the changes: instead of cutting 30″ x [width of fabric], just cut ⅓ yard (12″) and sew as shown. After turning right side out, hold one end flat, grab the other end and turn it over three times (effectively giving it a full 1½ turn – 180° + 180° + 180° – does that make sense?). Then, instead of trying to sew around the cut edges right sides together, fold one end to the inside ½” to ¾”, then tuck the other end inside that fold, making a full circle, and topstitch. The fleece has just the right about of thickness to its nap that you’ll never see the stitching, especially if you double (or even triple) the scarf around your neck.

Charcoal Chevron Embossed

Chevron Embossed

Paisley Cuddle

Violet Paisley Cuddle

I made five of these for Christmas gifts (reserving one for myself, of course). The first three, two in ivory embossed vine and one in charcoal embossed chevron, were cut at 12″, so when worn are 5½” wide (12″ – ½+½ seam allowance = 11″ folded in half).

At the end of the day in the store, there was only a generous half yard left of the violet embossed paisley, so I put that on my account, cut it in half, and it became two young-lady-sized scarves.

You want to see one on a little sweetie, don’t you?
(My younger son’s partner’s precious 4yo daughter, the lovely Miss C.)

IMG_8730

Common Interests

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Christmas cardI’ve been living in hell this week. While driving from Northeast Ohio to Western North Carolina two days before Christmas to see my 101-year-old mother and visit with my brothers and sister-in-law, I received a call from my SIL telling me we might have to move Mother from her assisted living facility to a nursing home. Damn!

You see, my plan includes: Mother living as long as she wants—in perfect health the whole time—and then just dropping dead, painlessly, of course, from a heart attack or other instant condition. So far my plan isn’t working so well. In fact, we’re way beyond it being possible.

So, starting at about 3:00 yesterday afternoon, I started tearing my mother’s ALF apartment apart and separating things into nursing home, charity, and Ohio. I took a little break last night to catch “Into the Woods” at a Hendersonville theatre, then continued packing until 11:30. This morning I was back at it. Breakfast at Dixie Diner, quick trip to spend a few minutes with Mother, then Wal-Mart to get packing supplies. Wal-Mart? On the day after Christmas? When the place is filled with frantic shoppers looking for cheap wrapping paper? That was a big Oops!

Throughout the day, I dropped some bags of clothing at the Rescue Mission, dropped a lot of things at Goodwill, visited Mother again, and stopped by my cousin’s house to drop some things off. In between those errands, I talked to clock people and movers and kept putting more things in the car.

But let me tell you the best thing that happened in the day. I was walking down the hallway in the ALF. The door was open to one of the apartments I passed. I glanced in and then stopped dead in my tracks. This woman was a quilter. A big-time quilter! I could see her inside watching television, so I knocked on the door, introduced myself, and we talked quilts for 20 minutes.

What a wonderful break in a perfectly awful day. Her collection—”I’ve given most of them away already”—included whole cloth and tree of life and adaptations of standard patterns and works she had designed herself. The small quilt hanging on her door (see picture) was her adaptation of a Christmas card she received years ago. It was precious and priceless.

The quilts are machine pieced and hand-quilted and have entailed thousands of hours of work. Her small bedroom contains a single bed and a table with her White sewing machine. She told me it’s a “Jeans” machine. She saw the dealer demonstrate it at a show. When he sewed directly from six layers of brand new denim to one layer of chiffon without a hiccup, she was sold.

And here she is in an assisted living facility, legs gone below the knees, getting around in a wheelchair.

She smiles. Why shouldn’t she smile? She’s surrounded by beauty and creates more beauty every day.

You and I should be so lucky!

Does a Manly Man Wear a Scarf?

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ScarfAs we were leaving Northern California after a wonderful week of vacation in September, I ducked into a yarn shop in Half Moon Bay and picked up two skeins of Noro “Cash Island” yarn (also called “Cashmere Island”). As I was writing this post, I learned it has been discontinued. Boo hoo! It’s a great yarn. I wanted to make more of these scarves. “Cash Island” is 60% wool, 30% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Can you say “soft”? Yep, soft.

When I showed it to Jas after purchase, he asked, “Don’t you have enough scarves?” I didn’t tell him it was designated for his neck, not mine. I waited until I was about 3/4 finished with the knitting and able to say, “Touch this. Isn’t it nice?”

The pattern was free with purchase. It’s called “Basketweave Scarf” and was designed for “Cash Island”. So simple – 26 stitches, some seed stitch then a k4/p4 basketweave, finished with a little seed stitch. That’s as close as I’m going to get to violating Fengari’s copyright. The lawyer inside won’t let me get any closer. The scarf uses 2 skeins of the yarn and size 10 needles. As I hadn’t taken any needles along on vacation, I picked up a pair of Crystal Palace size 10, 26″ circs on the store owner’s recommendation. Totally love these needles, even though I had vowed never to buy bamboo before ’cause I just didn’t love them. These are different!

Here’s the shop’s website.
Here’s a “Cash Island” listing on Etsy. I believe this is the same colorway I used. Watch Etsy and eBay if you want to get some of this yummy wool.
Wool scarfA little info on Crystal Palace needles.
Ooh, ooh – here are some 10s for $5.95!

You love the picture of my manly man posing at his desk, don’t you. When we left yesterday morning to run down to Columbus for a late Thanksgiving celebration with his mom and brothers and their families, he grabbed the scarf. When we got home an hour ago, he folded it carefully and put it on the coat closet shelf. I told him I wanted a picture, and he quickly replied, “People don’t wear scarves indoors.” “Girls do,” I responded. “Men don’t,” was his immediate, firm comeback.

So he wouldn’t pose for a portrait like I would had I been wearing the scarf. He had to sit at his desk and pretend to be working. Haha. Didn’t fool you, did he?!

And—by the way—it would make a fine scarf for a girly girl, also.

Fail/Pass

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Rayon VogueBack in 2012, I made one of Marcy Tilton’s jackets, Vogue 8709. I dipped into my stash and pulled out a rayon woven in rust and black, and found an old silk/cotton woven for cuffs and collar. A lot of work went into this top, and when it was done, it cried to live in someone else’s closet.

Thanksgiving dinnerLast summer our friend, Diane, invited it to live in her closet. When we arrived for “orphan’s dinner” at their home on Thanksgiving, she was wearing it and both she and the top looked very happy. Isn’t it nice when a fail is passed to someone else and becomes a success?!

And look at the beautiful dinner table Mike and Diane set for our group of close friends. What a lovely evening.