Sew? Clean? Sew!

MessyMy sewing room is an abomination. An embarrassment. A couple of days ago, the Jazzman walked in while I was slaving over a hot sewing machine, then backed quietly out as he turned out the lights so he wouldn’t have to look at the mess. That was a suitable response. In fact, the only way I would share a photo with you was by first running it through my iPhone’s ToonCamera app so the mess wouldn’t be quite so recognizable.

Here’s the problem: there are only 24 hours in a day. As you know, I’m trying to get too many things done (tops and a coat sewn) before I leave for the Cleveland Orchestra & Chorus European tour (Frankfurt, Paris, Luxembourg, Brussels) on the 8th of November. Yes, I could stop and pack my bags right now and have a perfectly fine wardrobe. But wait, I want that new Marcy Tilton coat. And I want that new Katherine Tilton top. I’m obsessed with having just the right items along so I’ll love how I look each day. It’s a sickness!

So when I’m balancing the time I have available to me in a day, do I clean or sew? Inevitably, I sew. Or knit.

I’ll get back from Europe on the 17th of November, and beginning the 18th, I am not going to allow myself any sewing or knitting time until I’ve spent x amount of time on cleaning that abysmal room. Any progress will leave it better than it is today.

How did I get onto this topic? I read Stephanie’s post today at MakesTheThings.com. I was instantly jealous of her clean, organized space. I want some of that!

What Every Body Needs

redcoatAs I walked into the JCC this morning for my water aerobics class, the sky was overcast and the weather forecast said there was a 90% chance of rain for the balance of the day.

A young mom and dad were getting out of their car next to me and walking their two children into the day care center. The mom was dressed impeccably and wearing a bright red coat.

Wow! Pop!!

We all should have a brightly colored coat to bring us some cheer on gray days.

CoatingI’m headed into my basement sewing room to begin work on Marcy Tilton’s coat, Vogue 8934. It’s a charcoal gray wool blend from Gorgeous Fabrics. Here’s your sneak peak. No, it’s not red. But it’s warm. For me, living in Northeast Ohio, warm is a higher priority than bright.

Stay tuned.

All You Need is Love

RedFront0… And some of this incredible poly/rayon/lycra knit from GorgeousFabrics and Katherine Tilton’s wonderful Butterick 5925 top. I think I am more in love with this garment than anything else I’ve made this year.

(You like the picture, don’t you? I’m channeling my inner Shams.)

Here’s the review:

RedNeckPattern Description: MISSES’ TOP: Pullover top has neckline and pocket variations, seam detail, and shaped hemine. A: slightly draped neck and pocket bands. B: pocket binding. A and B: semi-fitted, stitched hems. C and D: loose-fitting, hem band, and narrow hem. B, C and D: neck binding. Wrong side shows on hemlines, and C and D pocket openings.
Designed for light weight two-way stretch knits.

I made view D without the pockets. I frequently read that v-necks are good on me, but I rarely wear them, so thought I’d try it.

Pattern Sizing: Combinations: Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge)

I normally wear a Large or 14. I cut a Large and it fits perfectly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

RedFrontWhat did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The seaming is interesting. The fit is flowy without being overwhelming. It’s an absolutely lovely top.

Fabric Used: Poly/rayon/lycra from GorgeousFabrics.com. This link might give you some of them. The color I chose is called “ruby red”; as Ann says in the description, “it’s a deep red, almost blood red.” I think it would look good on any complexion.

RedBackPattern alterations or any design changes you made: Just a couple of tweaks.

  1. I hand-sewed the finishing of the neckband rather than “stitching in the ditch.” I love handwork, and I was having so much fun with this yummy fabric, so decided to give myself the present of quiet time stitching.
  2. I ignored every place in the instructions it said to clip the curve. I never clip when I’m working with a stable knit.
  3. On the bottom front piece which, I guess, is just designed to give it a little more length and is just a design feature, I didn’t like that it wasn’t hemmed. (I also didn’t like that the instructions ignored the issue. I would prefer that instructions tell me to leave the edge raw rather than ignoring it.) I sewed it in place, then realized it was going to roll slightly, so unstitched ¼” on either end, cut a ¼” strip of lightweight knit interfacing and fused it in place, then folded the edge up and topstitched with a single row of stitching. Then I restitched the edges and I love the finished look.
  4. I fused ⅝” strips of the same knit interfacing all the way around the bottom on either side of that front panel and then turned up the bottom. I now do this as a rule with all knits of this weight. It makes my double-needle hems go in so much more smoothly.
  5. I fused a ¾” strip of the knit interfacing on each back shoulder seam before stitching, then pressed the seam to the back and top-stitched. This is a standard practice for Marcy and Katherine Tilton and one I’ve adopted on all my knits. It gives me a more stable shoulder.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. Yes. A thousand times yes.

Conclusion: You cannot go wrong with either this pattern or this fabric. Go – Buy – Make – Wear – Love!


As I said the other day when I blathered on about this fabric, I threw the top on over black pants on Saturday night to go to dinner without adding the front bottom piece or finishing the hems. That’s how much I love it. Today for pictures and to wear to rehearsal in Cleveland tonight, I’m wearing it with brown pants. It would go with gray. It would go with ponte or stretch denim or stretch cotton or jeans or …. It just goes, Energizer Bunny style.

The necklace is to love, don’t you think? From a darling little shop in Paris of items handcrafted in Lebanon. I think I’ll have to visit there again next month. (For my friends who are over there right now, it’s at 30, rue de Varenne in the 7th.)

The earrings are these sweet little wire-wrapped black pearls I got on sale a while back at Naturals.

With thanks to Katherine for this fabulous pattern, to Ann for the fabulous fabric, and to Shams for inspiring me to try new things with my camera.

TTFN. Late for rehearsal!

Thinking About Design

image[Photo borrowed stolen from Marcy Tilton’s fabric store.

I wrote recently questioning the definition of design. This morning I reviewed my blog posts since early February of this year (the date I traveled to Santa Barbara and got kick-started by my friends/teachers/mentors Diane Ericson and Marcy Tilton and inspired by all my stylish sisters of the cloth on the West Coast). I have made a staggering 27 garments since returning from Design Outside the Lines. Twenty-seven!

(Oh, and that’s in addition to a bunch of knitting, two sewn bags, and helping DGD make her first T-shirt.)

Honestly, that seems a bit obscene.

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I discovered and began following Sarah Gunn’s Goodbye Valentino blog last fall and admired her Ready-to-Wear (RTW) Fast, but never thought I could do something like that. After attending Design Outside the Lines in February, I was pumped and decided to begin my own RTW Fast.
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Now let’s be very, very clear: I am not a shopper. I haven’t been inside a mall since about two months ago when my family doctor told me I had to ditch the underwires and buy new bras. 🙁 I would never, ever, under any circumstances short of the house burning down and all my clothes going up in smoke (knock wood) have bought that many clothes in THREE years, much less eight months!

So how did this happen? The Internet. I’ve been sewing for 50 years. When I was a teenager, I would go to the Singer store or to Belk-Lindsey in Colonial Plaza to buy my fabric. There were lots of decent fabrics in those days–wools, cottons, things one wasn’t ashamed to put on one’s body. (Do I sound like an Old Fart or what?!) Then came Cloth World and things started going downhill. I had my boys and sewed exclusively with Stretch & Sew, making all their cute little t-shirts and coordinating shorts. I made their father’s suits and outfits for myself.

The boys outgrew my sewing, their dad and I divorced, and I moved to Washington. I was working full-time and pursuing my Bachelor’s degree, and sewing time wasn’t readily available.

Ten years later I had finished my B.S. and J.D. and finally had the luxury of discretionary time. I learned to quilt and G Street Fabrics became my home away from home. Choosing quilting fabrics was relatively easy. But choosing a garment pattern and fabrics? Not so easy. I would pore over the Vogue pattern catalog for 20 minutes (aghast at the cost of a single pattern) and choose something I wanted to make. Then I’d wander the aisles for an hour. An hour! There were new-fangled fibers I’d never heard of, alongside my beloved and familiar natural fibers. I was in total sensory overload.

I’d try to choose fabrics and buttons to go along with the garment pattern I’d chosen. After an hour that I’d never see again, I’d put the pattern back in the drawer and walk out of the store, frustrated and sad that I was too [some perjorative adjective] to be able to choose a simple pattern and fabrics. I would make, maybe, one garment a year.

Fast forward to online fabric stores coupled with easy and flattering patterns for knit tops. Now I’m having the time of my life. I’m enjoying the sewing. I’m learning what I like and what I don’t like. I’m learning about my body. I’m learning new sewing techniques. I’m developing the confidence to ignore or override pattern instructions. I’m able to decide that something will only be worn under a jacket to the grocery store. I’m able to determine something is awful in its current incarnation and will be cut apart for a reincarnation. I’m amazed when I look inside my own head.

How is an online store different—for me—from a bricks-and-mortar fabric store? Let me tell you how I shop. I was a Nordstrom pianist for nine years in the Washington, DC, region. (Remember when Nordstrom had pianos and live pianists in every store? Wasn’t that heavenly? I always said I made “beautiful music to shop by.”) I would sit on the piano bench for five hours, amusing myself and all the shoppers in the store. I was always watching the sales associates as they whizzed by me, gathering garments for their customers to try on. On each ten-minute break at the top of the hour, I would stroll through my favorite departments, noting items I thought would be good on me. Then when I needed an outfit for an event or to supplement my wardrobe, I would go in to Nordy’s on my day off, try on several of the garments I had noted, and—within half an hour—be in and out of the store with what I needed. I don’t dawdle. I don’t try on things to try them on. I don’t waste my time.

How is that analogous to an online fabric store? Most every day, I pick up my iPad and spend five or so minutes at MarcyTilton.com or GorgeousFabrics.com or EmmaOneSock.com or VogueFabricsStore.com or MoodFabrics.com or [okay, that’s enough to give you an idea of what I mean]. If there’s something I really love and want to remember, I might pin it to a Pinterest board. Then when one of these stores notifies me via email newsletter or on their Facebook page feed that they’re having a sale, and there’s a new Vogue or Butterick pattern I want to make or I’ve decided I need just-one-more-knit-top for my upcoming trip to Europe, I’ll jump to that fabric (or a similar one if it’s already sold out) and buy it.

I no longer feel overwhelmed, as the clock isn’t ticking while I walk around the store. My finger is clicking around the stores for days, and I don’t feel pressured to buy anything on any one visit. And those twenty-seven garments? There are more than a handful that—sewn and tried-on—I love.love.love! This, which I’ll finish today; this; this; this; and the top I turn to whenever I need to smile, THIS! Oh, and my Marcy Tilton pants – Love ’em!

So what does this have to do with Thinking About Design? Some would say that design (in fashion) is imagining and creating the pattern for the garment or the outfit. I’m proposing that designing also includes taking that pattern and partnering it with fabric and notions to create the finished garment.

And, for me, online fabric stores make that so much easier. Even if I can’t pet the fabrics before purchasing them.


I want to tell you how I have personally defined “RTW Fast.” In the months since I began my fast, I have purchased two pair of pants, two sweaters, and two pair of shoes (and a few replacement bras, on doctor’s orders). The pants were replacements for existing Eileen Fisher stretch crepe pants that I wore frequently and had worn out or had snagged beyond repair. I couldn’t make replacements—to my knowledge, the fabric is just not available, nor is the pattern. I totally love those pants and don’t want to live without them. While they’re still available, I’m going to buy them. That’s my rebellious nature popping out. A new black sweater was to replace a thirteen-year-old black sweater that was embarrassingly old and worn. The other sweater was something I just couldn’t make and needed for the cold of northern Europe in mid-November. The shoes—I can’t make shoes. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Yummy, Yummy, Yummy …

redsoftI’ve got love in my tummy for this fabulous fabric. (Maybe one has to be born in the 50s to know that song.)

When’s the last time you made something you loved so much you couldn’t wait to finish it before wearing it? That was yesterday for me! Ann Steeves had a knit sale this weekend. (If you’re reading this on Sunday afternoon, Oct. 13, runrunrun to GorgeousFabrics.com where the sale’s still on.)

redsoftdescI picked up some of this poly/rayon/lycra blend from Gorgeous Fabrics last week, and it is to swoon over! Every time I put my hands on it to pin a seam or run that seam under the presser foot, I can’t wait to finish and wear it. Our traveling buddies called last night to see if we wanted to go out to dinner and, before the final pattern piece of Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5925 was in place and before any hems were sewn, I threw the top on over a pair of Eileen Fisher stretch crepe black slacks and adorned the V-neck with a great necklace I picked up in Paris in May, running out the door in glee. (And very disturbed to learn I didn’t document in my travel blog the store where I found the necklace – must find that store again!!)

Anyway – get some of this fabric while you can. It’s just fabulous. I’ll review the pattern in a day or two. It’s fabulous, also!!


Found the website for the necklace. Artisans of Lebanon, at 30, rue de Varenne in the 7th Arrondissement, not far off Boulevard Saint-Germain and not far from MusĂ©e Rodin. Fabulous long necklace, embroidery floss crocheted onto a copper chain, with clusters of beads and sequins crocheted at random intervals. Long enough to wrap three times around one’s neck— or leave long à la roaring twenties.

Brought this bracelet from the same store to DGD for her 10th birthday and almost didn’t give it to her. Of course I had to wear it several days on my trip to make sure it was good enough for her. ☺

Almost There

imageI’m on the last row of the last square of six 25″ x 25″ squares of Tyler’s blanket. Five of the squares have been blocked. Four of the squares have been sewn together.

I’ll finish it before the cold weather sets in, I hope. I’ll finish it before I leave for Frankfurt on November 8, I hope. I’ll breathe a sigh of relief when it’s done, I know!!

Here’s the previous post on this topic.

I don’t need any Good Mom points for this activity. My account is already overflowing beyond belief.

Training Them Early

Boston 2I posted a photo on Facebook yesterday that brought me so much joy I just wanted to share it here. This photo is from late 2006, a couple of months before my darling Boston and his family moved from Tucson back to Youngstown. It was taken in my home in Tucson, where I hosted frequent sleepovers for Boston and his sister.

There are three facets to this photo: 1) the blanket on which he is lying; 2) the green blanket to his right; and 3) the red pajamas he is wearing.

1) When Boston’s daddy, DS#2 Tyler, was born, a friend gave me a bunting for him that zipped open into a blanket. The fabric on the inside was sort of a silky nylon, like a fine nightgown. Tyler was sick quite a bit as an infant, and would either lie on my chest in bed stroking my nightgown, or lie in his crib stroking that bunting fabric. Three years pass, the blanket gets too close to a space heater and is burned. I remake it into a pillow. A few more years pass. His father and I divorce. His father plays some sneaky tricks and gains custody. A while later I learn that his grandmother, who treated me like I was the devil’s sister, has thrown his pillow away.

Several years later I move to Washington, D.C., and remarry. My boys spend summers with me. One summer, at about age 10, Tyler asks if I’ll make him another blanket. I choose a sports car flannel for one side and a nightgown nylon knit for the other and sandwich that around a quilt batting. He loves it and sleeps with it whenever he’s with me.

Four years later, I regain custody of him and we live happily ever after. He goes to a prestigious arts boarding school, then to Youngstown State University on a full scholarship. In Youngstown he meets the woman whom he will marry and with whom he will have two beautiful children.

My life stumbles along—various husbands, relationships, houses. Always, the sports car blankie is tucked into the linen closet.

In 2003, my then-current fiancé decides he “wants to be alone” (and marries someone else 10 weeks later, but that’s a different story …), and I move to a home in far northwest Tucson, a mile away from two-year-old Boston and newborn Ridley. My new home has a bedroom just for them. On Boston’s bed is Daddy’s sports car blankie. Three years later, I move to a house in midtown Tucson. Again, Boston’s bed is covered with the blankie. Each time he sleeps at my house, he wants to hear the story of Daddy and the sports car blanket.

When he learns his family is moving back to Youngstown and realizes his grandma is not moving with them, he asks if he can take Daddy’s blankie with him to Youngstown. Of course I say of course. And he asks me to put a label on it. When I ask him what he wants on the label he thinks long and hard. The words change several times before he settles on the exact wording.

Can you zoom in on the photo and see the wording? It brings tears to my eyes every time I look at it:
“Boston’s Sleepover with Grandma
This was Daddy’s blanket when he was a little boy.”

That makes me want to just hug and hug and hug this child. Even if he is now almost my height!

Oh, by the way, this blanket came back to me last year for repairs and is again on his bed.

2. Continuing on the blankie theme: when he was born, I bought Boston a Barefoot Dreams receiving blanket and the matching mini blanket. (At that time, Barefoot Dreams made a mini blanket that matched the signature receiving blanket. They’re flannel on one side and charmeuse on the other. FABULOUS!)

Boston loved—instantly, from birth, loved—this blanket. His parents couldn’t get in the car with him without making sure the mini blanket (which came to be called his travel blanket) was along.

As he fell asleep each night and with each nap, he would rub the charmeuse binding with his thumb and forefinger. Pretty soon, the binding wore out and the blanket fell apart. I would drive to Nordstrom and buy another. After a while, Nordstrom stopped carrying them and I would search online for another, trying to find the best price. (And as you can see, these ain’t cheap blankets!)

At one point, his mother asked if I couldn’t just replace the charmeuse backing and binding. I purchased some polyester satin from Jo-Ann’s and did that. From that point on, I started making the blankets for him, letting him choose the colors he wanted. I would machine-embroider or appliqué some design on the flannel side. Once I held the iron too long on the polyester satin, so I added a little motif on that side. For Christmas one year, I made him a butter yellow satin and flannel blanket that was about 1.5 times the size of the original blankets. He’s now 12. He still sleeps with that yellow blanket. “Love” doesn’t begin to describe his feelings for and attachment to that blanket.

It warms a sewist’s (and a grandma’s) heart.

3) So, one day in Tucson on a Sleepover With Grandma, he was in my sewing room, wearing a pair of cotton pajamas I had made for him. He was holding his blanket and fingering the satin. He asked, “Can you make me a pair of pajamas out of this material?” Of course, I replied in a flash, always wanting to grant his every wish. And what color did he want? His favorite color, naturally. Red.

Thus were born the red satin pajamas. For a five-year-old.

Don’t you love the imagination of children?

So, back to the title—”Training Them Early”. For what am I training them? Why, to love fine fabrics and hand-crafted items, of course.

The Guinea Pig Shirt

MissoniFullimageWhy, oh why, do I keep trying patterns no one has made before?! (Or at least no one has written a review or a blog post.) I must be a glutton for punishment, or else I’m emotionally bonded to my seam ripper!

Today’s newbie pattern is Vogue 1363 in Sandra Betzina’s “Today’s Fit” line.

imageI liked the layered look of View A. This has been my year of mixing prints, so I thought I would have some remnants that would work together with the Missoni-esque ITY fabric that I picked up at Vogue Fabrics’ booth at the Pittburgh Original Sewing & Quilt Expo.

Soooo, let me tell you about this pattern:

Pattern Description: MISSES’ TOP: Loose-fitting, pullover top has narrow hem. A: neck band, sleeve bands and insets.

Pattern Sizing: “Today’s Fit” by Sandra Betzina. Combinations: (A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J) All sizes in one envelope. I cut an E, cutting the shirt hem at the G line (basically adding an inch to the shirt length).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, because of all my modifications.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Fairly easy, but I disagree with some of the methods used (with all due respect to Sandra Betzina, with whom I have studied and whom I admire).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes

  1. I’m busty. FBAs intimidate me. Sandra’s explanation was clear and easy and—for once—the bust fit exquisitely. (If you aren’t familiar with FBAs, and you make this pattern, pay more attention to the illustration than the text of the FBA instructions. Put your logical-thinking cap on, and you’ll be fine.)
  2. Edited on 2014/1/11: Linda C. in Phoenix called me out on this – see her thoughtful post below. (I deem it thoughtful because she was very kind in pointing out my ignorance!!) What Sandra does is a dart adjustment, not an FBA. For excellent discussions of various types of FBAs see Shams’s Busty Info section on her brilliant Communing With Fabric blog. Note, especially, her FBAs in Knits post. Thanks, Linda, for pointing out my misstatement.
  3. Another like that I haven’t tried yet: Sandra includes instructions for converting the shirt to a sleeveless version. Will definitely try this next spring.
  4. I liked the layered-look design. Had I chosen a different fabric for the inset, the design might have worked for me.

Dislikes

  1. Curved seam application of neck inset and neck band. No, no, no. DO NOT staystitch and clip. This is why we work with knits–they’re flexible. And especially if you’re working with a stable knit. The stay stitching is an unnecessary step, IMO. The clipping just weakens the seam. And if you’re using a mesh fabric, all those clips just give you a hot mess, both in the infrastructure and visually. But, most importantly, it weakens the seam.
  2. Several small pieces had ⅝” seams. I think it would have been easier to work with ¼” seams. Just my opinion. I think a neck binding, seamed at ¼”, or even a folded binding—stitched, wrapped, and top-stitched—would have worked much better.

Fabric Used: Missoni-esque ITY knit from Vogue Fabrics for the body, the yummiest “ĂŒber-soft rayon jersey” from GorgeousFabrics.com for the sleeves, and a black “soft nylon mesh”, also from Gorgeous Fabrics, for the inset, but not used.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

imageThe picture shows the neck with inset. The mesh was used for the inset. The pattern says seam, then serge or finish and trim off ⅜”, pressing the seam allowance toward the inset. But if you’re using a sheer, you can see that seam allowance. To my eye, this was not pretty. What if the body were solid and the inset was done out of any of these mesh knits Marcy offers or this or this from Ann Steeves’ Gorgeous Fabrics? imageWith a mesh like that instead of what I used, you wouldn’t see the seam allowance. The issues I had with this neck and sleeve would have gone away. (But look what a beautiful job I did with the insertion!)

On the neck band, I didn’t want a super black ring around my neck, so didn’t think that wonderful black rayon that I used on the sleeves would work on the band. I tried making the band out of the mesh. #fail. I tried recutting the band to be deeper and cutting the existing inset shorter, so I would have about ½” of mesh showing and about 1½” of rayon knit for the band. #fail. Too much visible seam allowance. (VSA?) Too much messymessymess.

imageFinally, after thinking and cogitating and scratching my head, I cut off the sleeve inset and band, and cut off the neck inset and band. I hemmed the sleeve with ½” turned hem, and left the neckline raw. There are so many topstitch lines and pseudoserger lines, you’ll never know it’s raw!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I do like the layered look, and will probably try it again, rethinking the neck finish, and absolutely choosing fabrics that are more appropriate. Will make View B for 10yo DGD, who should fit the size A perfectly.

Conclusion: I’ve been hearing about ITY for nine months and have been curious to try some. Now I have, and highly recommend it. Lovely to sew with.


And what to wear it with? I think I’ll try scrunching up the hem and putting it on top of black jeans and flats. Is it going in the suitcase to Europe in a month? Probably not. I think it will be going to the grocery store. (That is to say: I like it but I don’t love it.”)

Why the title “Guinea Pig Shirt”? Because I was the guinea pig to try making this shirt without having any one else’s experience to draw upon.