Me-Made-May ’14, Segment 2

Here’s my second installation for #mmmay14, pulled from my daily Facebook posts. I believe I only repeated once or twice, and that only because I was traveling and wanted specific highly-wearable tops.

May 16, 2014 StyleArc Sunny Top

May 16, 2014
StyleArc Sunny Top

May 17, 2014 Honey Cowl

May 17, 2014
Honey Cowl

May 18, 2014 Butterick 5891

May 18, 2014
Butterick 5891

May 19, 2014 Vogue 8831

May 19, 2014
Vogue 8831

May 20, 2014 Vogue 8831

May 20, 2014
Vogue 8831

May 21, 2014 Butterick 5925

May 21, 2014
Butterick 5925

May 23, 2014 Butterick 5925

May 23, 2014
Butterick 5925

May 24, 2014 StyleArc's Sunny Vogue 8590

May 24, 2014
StyleArc’s Sunny
Vogue 8590

May 25, 2014 Tilled Scarf Malabrigo Rasta and Silkpaca

May 25, 2014
Tilled Scarf
Malabrigo Rasta and Silkpaca

May 26, 2014 Vogue 8831 Vogue

May 26, 2014
Vogue 8831
Vogue 7597

May 27, 2014 Vogue 8817

May 27, 2014
Vogue 8817

May 28, 2014 Butterick 5925

May 28, 2014
Butterick 5925

May 29, 2014 Vogue 8582

May 29, 2014
Vogue 8582

May 30, 2014 Butterick 8817

May 30, 2014
Butterick 8817

May 31, 2014 Cutting Line Designs 41357 Stars in Heaven

May 31, 2014
Cutting Line Designs 41357
Stars in Heaven

End-of-school-year teacher gifts

zipbag1For most of the past seven years, I have taken advantage of my sewing and knitting talents to create handcrafted gifts for the grandkids’ teachers at Christmas and at the end of the year. I’ve even heard that some of the teachers tell my daughter-in-law they look forward to those gift occasions. (Whew! Sometimes I worry that they’d rather have a gift card.)

zipbag2A month ago a Tucson friend of mine posted on Facebook a small zippered bag she had made. She shared the link to the tutorial on Amanda Niederhauser’s “Jedi Craft Girl” blog. I thought the bags were cute, and decided to make these for my end of year teacher gifts.

zipbag4Fabrics I used:
Windham Fabrics Collage – scratch
Windham Fabrics Collage – alphabet
If you look at the other fabrics in this collection, you’ll recognize some of the fabrics I used for the notebook covers I made for the teachers last Christmas.

zipbag5Dear Stella “Piper”
Dear Stella chevron stripe
Dear Stella circles
Dear Stella Sprinkles (Multi)

I think the only thing I changed on the tutorial was to trim the seam allowances off the fusible fleece before fusing to the face fabric.

zipbag3And my only reminder to you is this: make sure you left the bag unzipped. Always check before you sew up the boxed corners. (You hear my “oops”, don’t you?)

I have a plastic box full of various trims suitable for embellishing fiber projects. I dug in and found suitable embroidery threads that I pulled through the zipper pull to make it easier to grip.

Took the four bags over to the grandbabes’ house tonight, then came home and finished one more to put in my stash. For this bag I used the same cotton batik that I used in the zippered mesh bag I made a couple of weeks ago.

I’m preparing to add ecommerce to my website. Watch for this bag to appear there.

zipbag6zipbag7zipbag8

Fabric With Memories

2014-05-28 07.41.19I posted last week about the fabric I bought in Germany last November and my lack of sufficient yardage. I pulled five swatches from Mood Fabrics and subsequently ordered “Chocolate Rayon Jersey” for the sleeves and pocket trim of Butterick 5925, View A.

2014-05-28 07.41.53I finished it yesterday morning, just in time to leave for a road trip to Western NC to celebrate my mother’s 101st birthday. I slipped it on for the Spousal Equivalent to see. He—who is usually rather quiet about my wardrobe—immediately said, “But you already have one of those.” Hmmm. What I have is a similar print in a very different top. But I should be happy he noticed that much, right?!

I have mixed feelings about the bands at the bottom of the sleeves. I’m wondering if I should have omitted them and just left the sleeves solid brown. I’d love your comments—love ’em or hate ’em? They’re just zigzagged into place, so would be easy to remove.

Here’s the review:

Pattern Description: Pullover top has neckline and pocket variations, seam detail, and shaped hemine. A: slightly draped neck and pocket bands. This is my second time with View A. Made a View B in a solid red RPL a year ago and it’s my go-to top!

Pattern Sizing: Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge) I’m 5’8″ and generously-busted. I cut a Large, adding 2″ to the length at the shorten/lengthen lines.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the style. Love the offset neck and pocket binding.

As I mentioned in a previous review, I found the pocket bottom to be challenging. I didn’t have enough of the main fabric for both pockets in this version, so just made one. I interfaced the hem of the inset/godet first, then laid the bound pocket on top of the inset, basted the sides, but also basted the bottom of the pocket to the interfaced hem allowance so that the basting would not show. Then I folded and pressed the hem allowance on the inset. I moved to the sewing machine and slipped the presser foot inside the pocket, sewing the inset hem from about 1.5″ in from either seam allowance. To clarify: the hem on the pocket/inset is sewn before attaching the inset to the front and back side seams, but I’ve left enough free so that I can sew those seams.

After inserting the inset and sewing the side seams, I [double-needle] sewed the hem from the edge of the pocket/inset around the back, the other inset, and the front, ending a half-inch into the pocket/inset. I had about an inch on either side of the pocket that was not hemmed, so just whipped that into place invisibly by hand.

I’m pleased with the result. The pocket bags down a little below the hem, but I didn’t have the bunching I experienced with the pocket/inset hem on the previous version.

I haven’t checked this theory yet, as I was rushing to leave on a trip, but I believe the pocket should be sized to the inset—should be cut the same width as the inset—not one-size-pocket-for-all-sizes. I suspect the pocket is cut the same size as the XL or XXL.

Fabric Used: A rayon/lycra (maybe rayon/poly/lycra) blend that I picked up in a department store in Frankfurt, Germany, while on tour last year with the Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus. Lovely memories every time I look at this fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: See note above re pocket. Interfaced the back shoulder seam allowance and the hem allowances with a lightweight tricot fusible interfacing. (A trick learned from Marcy Tilton.) Next time I’ll trim the pocket to match the inset.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably will make one more – in black for performances. Would absolutely recommend! This is a beautiful top!

Conclusion: Make it! Wear it repeatedly!

One more picture for your enlightenment, from the hotel bathroom.

2014-05-28 07.41.39

Digging into my memory

cush2My home came with a lot of leftovers from the previous owner. That was fortunate for me, as I had been living with my son and daughter-in-law for a year before I bought this house. I had gotten rid of many possessions before leaving Tucson, after doing the ship-and-store or give-away analysis.

The wicker chairs on my porch are one example of the sort of items I “inherited”—items one doesn’t need in a nursing home (where my home’s previous owner went after leaving here). The cushions on the chairs were old and not very supportive, but still usable.

Cushion 1 - Side B

Cushion 1 – Side B

A year ago as summer approached, I shopped one of JoAnn Fabrics’ sales and picked up outdoor fabric to make new cushions, along with foam cushion forms and zippers. And then it all sat in my sewing room for a year, taking up space and making me feel disorganized.

Last week I said, “Enough!” Summer is a month away and I want new cushions. I ordered some cool “wrap and fuse” cording from Nancy’s Notions to make constructing the piping easier.

cush4Here’s what I’m proud of: I didn’t look at a book or search the internet for a pattern. I had made several cushions 20-30 years ago, using the Singer Sewing Books for home furnishings. I laid a piece of newspaper on the chair seat and traced what I wanted, and set to work. I made some tiny little errors at decision points, but nothing that you would see when looking at or sitting on the cushion. I didn’t have to reference anything!!

cush5The only challenge was cutting the foam into the proper size and shape for the cushions. In the past I just drew the shape, then cut with an electric carving knife. Easy as pie! Not this time. Cushion technology has advanced, and these are harder to cut. After struggling with them for over half-an-hour, I drive to a nearby upholstery shop, where the nice man cut them both in five minutes and charged me nothing. Good choice!

I needed more piping than I had, so ordered more, which arrived Saturday. I was busy and set it aside someplace. Dang! Now I can’t finish the second cushion until I remember where I set it!!

The next step in having wonderful cushiony chairs to sit on all summer is to figure out what shape and size I want for the back cushions.

Now explain to me why I’ve been procrastinating on this task for a year!!!

The best kind of compliment

2014-05-17 11.19.31Thursday afternoon, around four o’clock, I was working killing time in the TV room when an incoming text pinged.

Here’s what I read:

“So, I have now seen both [your sons] with these handy fabric/mesh bags that they carry all of their gadget cords in. Do you happen to have an extra?”

What a compliment! A) To notice something I made; B) To realize I made it; and C) To comprehend that you’re in such high standing on my friend list that I’d make one for you in a heartbeat.

I didn’t have any extras around, but I dropped what I was doing and ran to the basement.

I was able to immediately lay my hands on a piece of mesh already cut to a good size; some suitable fabric; a good zipper of the right size; the right color thread; and the can of Scotchgard. I didn’t have to search for anything! That’s big in my life!!

One hour later, I grabbed my car keys and drive the mile to the post office, where I handed it off to the counter clerk ten minutes before closing time. Two days later, at 10:00 a.m., it was deposited in our friend’s mailbox in Amarillo.

Tomorrow it will travel to The Glass Furnace, about an hour outside Istanbul, Turkey, where our friend, a dance professor, will teach Pilates and yoga to glassblowers to help them in their work.

I’ve known this young woman for 20 years, and she’s done nothing but grow more accomplished and lovelier across the years.

Wow! I know some pretty interesting people!!


Update: Picture of bag, filled with gadgets and accessories, ready to jump into carry-on and head to Turkey.
image

Getting Just What You Want

frankfurtSix Months. This fabric has been waiting for six months, since I captured it from the fabric department at the Karstadt department store in Frankfurt, Germany, last November. It was similar in print and hand to the “Poster City” rayon/lycra print I got from Emma One Sock last year. The new fabric has waited patiently through the brutal winter we just endured. And now its time has come.

I’ve been pondering pattern choice for this fabric periodically over the six months. I thought I wanted a simple top because of the busy-ness of the pattern. However, after making a Butterick 5925, View A, for a friend a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to make one for myself. So I laid the fabric out and thought I had enough. But I lengthened the body by 2″, so I didn’t really have enough.

Could I have chosen a different pattern? Sure. I have a wide variety of patterns that I haven’t tried yet that would have only required the two metres I purchased. But—stubborn me—I wanted this top in this fabric. So I cut out what I could: back, front, godet, and (I think) collar.

helperThen I snuggled into my bed with my iPad and started looking around for either more of this print or a coordinating print or solid that would go well for sleeves and pockets. I found several possibilities online at Mood Fabrics and ordered swatches. In a few days I can audition them with the “poster print” fabric and see what I like.

My helper was in place tonight, doing his part to assist impede my progress.

Last week I ordered more Soft Stretch Fusible Tricot interfacing from Sarah Veblen. So tonight I stabilized and sewed the shoulder seams, then stabilized and pressed up the hem. Once I choose the companion fabric, I’ll be that much closer to completion. I might even be able to have it done before I drive to the mountains of Western North Carolina after Memorial Day for my mother’s 101st birthday.

Me-Made-May ’14, Segment 1

I’m participating in #mmmay14, but I’ve been posting daily photos on Facebook rather than posting them here.

Handknit sweater

May 3, 2014
Handknit sweater
“Knit Kimono”

May 4, 2014 Butterick 5523

May 4, 2014
Butterick 5523

May 5, 2014 Vogue 8859 Safety Scarf

May 5, 2014
Vogue 8859
Safety Scarf

May 6, 2014 Top: Vogue 8582 Pants: Vogue 8859

May 6, 2014
Top: Vogue 8582
Pants: Vogue 8859

May 7, 2014 Vogue 8859

May 7, 2014
Vogue 8859

May 8, 2014 Hemlock Tee  Vogue 8859

May 8, 2014
Hemlock Tee
Vogue 8859

May 9, 2014 Vogue 8793

May 9, 2014
Vogue 8793

May 10, 2014 Vogue 8817

May 10, 2014
Vogue 8817

May 11, 2014 Vogue 8817

May 11, 2014
Vogue 8817

May 13, 2014 McCall's 6035

May 13, 2014
McCall’s 6035

May 14, 2014 Vogue 7637

May 14, 2014
Vogue 7637

May 15, 2014 Butterick 5961

May 15, 2014
Butterick 5961

With a Few Extra Touches

hempstripeMy goal over the next few months is to destash—by sewing the pieces I love and getting rid of the ones that make me wonder what I was thinking. I picked up this piece of hemp/organic cotton knit from EmmaOneSock last September. It’s been lying on top of a box ever since, calling to me every time I walk into my sewing room. I had thought I wanted to make Grainline Studio’s Hemlock Tee. So cute, so easy, so comfortable. But when I started pawing through my patterns, hempstripedetailI realized I wanted to make another of Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5961. I’ve made three already, but each of those just not perfect. On the first, the fabric was too soft to make the neck stand up nicely. The second just feels big and boxy, and the third feels big and sloppy and looks like a sports jersey. Well, sorta.

So I decided to make one more 5961, and cut it a size smaller. I had one sleeve in last night, and only side seams and hems to go when I just gave out. After the horrible winter, now we’re having heavy pollen. My eyes were just burning and I couldn’t look at another stitch.

Rain overnight made the morning more bearable. I decided to take a walk this morning, then went right into the sewing room, knowing I’d want to wear the top as soon as it was finished.

But when it was finished and I slipped it on, I still didn’t like it. It still wasn’t “just right.” And yet I’d been guarding and protecting that fabric for so long, I wanted to like it. So embellishment was the only answer.


Pattern Description: Very loose-fitting, pullover top has collar and shaped armholes. Designed for moderate stretch knits.

Pattern Sizing: B5(8-10-12-14-16), F5(16-18-20-22-24)
I normally cut a 16 in Katherine Tilton’s designs, but the “very loose-fitting” description and my previous experience led me to cut a 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes. Really the only tricky think is the corners on the sleeves.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? To me, the sleeve detail makes it a nice departure from the standard tee shirt.

Fabric Used: Hemp/Organic Cotton Jersey from Emma One Sock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
This is my fourth go-round with this pattern. The first three all seemed a little boxy. However, the fabric I used for those also had more stretch than this hemp/cotton jersey. I cut a 14 rather than a 16, but I did the sleeve seams at ⅜” rather than ⅝”.

I added 1.75″ to the length of the front and back. I’m 5’8″.

On the first top I made, the neck was too floppy. It just lies there. I tend to wear a handknit cowl with it to disguise the sleepy collar. In the third, I actually interfaced the collar. It was a little better, but still not just right. For this one, I used Marcy and Katherine’s trick of offsetting the collar and basting before sewing into the neckline. On one long side of the collar, I marked notches that were 1.5″ to the right of the existing notches. I also marked a point 1.5″ to the right of the center back seam line. I sewed the center back seam, then matched up the off-center notches, basted, and sewed in place with a double seam. After trimming and pressing, I slipped it over my head and was in love. Great improvement.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I won’t sew it again, as four is enough. I haven’t made the pants yet, and may try those. I would recommend it.

Conclusion: Cute easy-to-wear top will make a great addition to my spring/fall wardrobe. The hemp/cotton seems like it will be too warm for summer wear.


So how did I get from “meh” to “hey, great!”? Embellishment.

I’m a student of Diane Ericson, Marcy Tilton, and Nancy Shriber. Diane has a great line of stencils, and leads great workshops in how to add a Wow factor to your garments with ink, paint, dye, and stenciling. Marcy Tilton has a line of silkscreens.

hempstencilI typically use Marcy’s silkscreens, but today I wanted to use a stencil. Diane’s “Global Shapes” stencil was hanging next to my cutting table, so I grabbed it, then found silver and russet metallic Lumiere paints, gloves, brushes and sponges, and some plastic lids. Grabbing a piece of cardboard to stick in-between the front and back, I was ready to embellish.

hempstripefronticonI marked the center point on the front and stamped the cool multi-line circle in silver. Then I decided it needed friends, so moved up one stripe and stamped another circle to the left of the original, then rotated the circle a little and stamped on to the right. But there was a large unadorned center in each circle group, so I poured some russet, and used three of the five en-point squares (center right in the photo) to add a little color to the center of each circle set.

hempstripebackiconOne thing I learned from Nancy Shriber that I practice with every piece of wearable art is, “You not only enter a room, you also leave.” I love putting a little something on the back of garments to surprise viewers when I turn around. I used the curved rectangle and just sponged around the edges, not through the entire rectangle. When that was dry, I stamped three more russet squares, then brushed a little with the russet in the lower righthand corner.

I was done, and I was in love. The striped shirt, by itself, was borrrring. The striped shirt with the metallic embellishments, but fun and—to my eye—chic.

I’ve always felt inept with stencils and paints, but today I felt very, very ept. This project, my friends, was a success!

(And—if I may brag—look at those perfectly matched seams!)

hempstripefronthempstripebackhempstripesidehempmatch