Digging into my memory

cush2My home came with a lot of leftovers from the previous owner. That was fortunate for me, as I had been living with my son and daughter-in-law for a year before I bought this house. I had gotten rid of many possessions before leaving Tucson, after doing the ship-and-store or give-away analysis.

The wicker chairs on my porch are one example of the sort of items I “inherited”—items one doesn’t need in a nursing home (where my home’s previous owner went after leaving here). The cushions on the chairs were old and not very supportive, but still usable.

Cushion 1 - Side B

Cushion 1 – Side B

A year ago as summer approached, I shopped one of JoAnn Fabrics’ sales and picked up outdoor fabric to make new cushions, along with foam cushion forms and zippers. And then it all sat in my sewing room for a year, taking up space and making me feel disorganized.

Last week I said, “Enough!” Summer is a month away and I want new cushions. I ordered some cool “wrap and fuse” cording from Nancy’s Notions to make constructing the piping easier.

cush4Here’s what I’m proud of: I didn’t look at a book or search the internet for a pattern. I had made several cushions 20-30 years ago, using the Singer Sewing Books for home furnishings. I laid a piece of newspaper on the chair seat and traced what I wanted, and set to work. I made some tiny little errors at decision points, but nothing that you would see when looking at or sitting on the cushion. I didn’t have to reference anything!!

cush5The only challenge was cutting the foam into the proper size and shape for the cushions. In the past I just drew the shape, then cut with an electric carving knife. Easy as pie! Not this time. Cushion technology has advanced, and these are harder to cut. After struggling with them for over half-an-hour, I drive to a nearby upholstery shop, where the nice man cut them both in five minutes and charged me nothing. Good choice!

I needed more piping than I had, so ordered more, which arrived Saturday. I was busy and set it aside someplace. Dang! Now I can’t finish the second cushion until I remember where I set it!!

The next step in having wonderful cushiony chairs to sit on all summer is to figure out what shape and size I want for the back cushions.

Now explain to me why I’ve been procrastinating on this task for a year!!!

The best kind of compliment

2014-05-17 11.19.31Thursday afternoon, around four o’clock, I was working killing time in the TV room when an incoming text pinged.

Here’s what I read:

“So, I have now seen both [your sons] with these handy fabric/mesh bags that they carry all of their gadget cords in. Do you happen to have an extra?”

What a compliment! A) To notice something I made; B) To realize I made it; and C) To comprehend that you’re in such high standing on my friend list that I’d make one for you in a heartbeat.

I didn’t have any extras around, but I dropped what I was doing and ran to the basement.

I was able to immediately lay my hands on a piece of mesh already cut to a good size; some suitable fabric; a good zipper of the right size; the right color thread; and the can of Scotchgard. I didn’t have to search for anything! That’s big in my life!!

One hour later, I grabbed my car keys and drive the mile to the post office, where I handed it off to the counter clerk ten minutes before closing time. Two days later, at 10:00 a.m., it was deposited in our friend’s mailbox in Amarillo.

Tomorrow it will travel to The Glass Furnace, about an hour outside Istanbul, Turkey, where our friend, a dance professor, will teach Pilates and yoga to glassblowers to help them in their work.

I’ve known this young woman for 20 years, and she’s done nothing but grow more accomplished and lovelier across the years.

Wow! I know some pretty interesting people!!


Update: Picture of bag, filled with gadgets and accessories, ready to jump into carry-on and head to Turkey.
image

Getting Just What You Want

frankfurtSix Months. This fabric has been waiting for six months, since I captured it from the fabric department at the Karstadt department store in Frankfurt, Germany, last November. It was similar in print and hand to the “Poster City” rayon/lycra print I got from Emma One Sock last year. The new fabric has waited patiently through the brutal winter we just endured. And now its time has come.

I’ve been pondering pattern choice for this fabric periodically over the six months. I thought I wanted a simple top because of the busy-ness of the pattern. However, after making a Butterick 5925, View A, for a friend a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to make one for myself. So I laid the fabric out and thought I had enough. But I lengthened the body by 2″, so I didn’t really have enough.

Could I have chosen a different pattern? Sure. I have a wide variety of patterns that I haven’t tried yet that would have only required the two metres I purchased. But—stubborn me—I wanted this top in this fabric. So I cut out what I could: back, front, godet, and (I think) collar.

helperThen I snuggled into my bed with my iPad and started looking around for either more of this print or a coordinating print or solid that would go well for sleeves and pockets. I found several possibilities online at Mood Fabrics and ordered swatches. In a few days I can audition them with the “poster print” fabric and see what I like.

My helper was in place tonight, doing his part to assist impede my progress.

Last week I ordered more Soft Stretch Fusible Tricot interfacing from Sarah Veblen. So tonight I stabilized and sewed the shoulder seams, then stabilized and pressed up the hem. Once I choose the companion fabric, I’ll be that much closer to completion. I might even be able to have it done before I drive to the mountains of Western North Carolina after Memorial Day for my mother’s 101st birthday.

Me-Made-May ’14, Segment 1

I’m participating in #mmmay14, but I’ve been posting daily photos on Facebook rather than posting them here.

Handknit sweater

May 3, 2014
Handknit sweater
“Knit Kimono”

May 4, 2014 Butterick 5523

May 4, 2014
Butterick 5523

May 5, 2014 Vogue 8859 Safety Scarf

May 5, 2014
Vogue 8859
Safety Scarf

May 6, 2014 Top: Vogue 8582 Pants: Vogue 8859

May 6, 2014
Top: Vogue 8582
Pants: Vogue 8859

May 7, 2014 Vogue 8859

May 7, 2014
Vogue 8859

May 8, 2014 Hemlock Tee  Vogue 8859

May 8, 2014
Hemlock Tee
Vogue 8859

May 9, 2014 Vogue 8793

May 9, 2014
Vogue 8793

May 10, 2014 Vogue 8817

May 10, 2014
Vogue 8817

May 11, 2014 Vogue 8817

May 11, 2014
Vogue 8817

May 13, 2014 McCall's 6035

May 13, 2014
McCall’s 6035

May 14, 2014 Vogue 7637

May 14, 2014
Vogue 7637

May 15, 2014 Butterick 5961

May 15, 2014
Butterick 5961

With a Few Extra Touches

hempstripeMy goal over the next few months is to destash—by sewing the pieces I love and getting rid of the ones that make me wonder what I was thinking. I picked up this piece of hemp/organic cotton knit from EmmaOneSock last September. It’s been lying on top of a box ever since, calling to me every time I walk into my sewing room. I had thought I wanted to make Grainline Studio’s Hemlock Tee. So cute, so easy, so comfortable. But when I started pawing through my patterns, hempstripedetailI realized I wanted to make another of Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5961. I’ve made three already, but each of those just not perfect. On the first, the fabric was too soft to make the neck stand up nicely. The second just feels big and boxy, and the third feels big and sloppy and looks like a sports jersey. Well, sorta.

So I decided to make one more 5961, and cut it a size smaller. I had one sleeve in last night, and only side seams and hems to go when I just gave out. After the horrible winter, now we’re having heavy pollen. My eyes were just burning and I couldn’t look at another stitch.

Rain overnight made the morning more bearable. I decided to take a walk this morning, then went right into the sewing room, knowing I’d want to wear the top as soon as it was finished.

But when it was finished and I slipped it on, I still didn’t like it. It still wasn’t “just right.” And yet I’d been guarding and protecting that fabric for so long, I wanted to like it. So embellishment was the only answer.


Pattern Description: Very loose-fitting, pullover top has collar and shaped armholes. Designed for moderate stretch knits.

Pattern Sizing: B5(8-10-12-14-16), F5(16-18-20-22-24)
I normally cut a 16 in Katherine Tilton’s designs, but the “very loose-fitting” description and my previous experience led me to cut a 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes. Really the only tricky think is the corners on the sleeves.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? To me, the sleeve detail makes it a nice departure from the standard tee shirt.

Fabric Used: Hemp/Organic Cotton Jersey from Emma One Sock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
This is my fourth go-round with this pattern. The first three all seemed a little boxy. However, the fabric I used for those also had more stretch than this hemp/cotton jersey. I cut a 14 rather than a 16, but I did the sleeve seams at ⅜” rather than ⅝”.

I added 1.75″ to the length of the front and back. I’m 5’8″.

On the first top I made, the neck was too floppy. It just lies there. I tend to wear a handknit cowl with it to disguise the sleepy collar. In the third, I actually interfaced the collar. It was a little better, but still not just right. For this one, I used Marcy and Katherine’s trick of offsetting the collar and basting before sewing into the neckline. On one long side of the collar, I marked notches that were 1.5″ to the right of the existing notches. I also marked a point 1.5″ to the right of the center back seam line. I sewed the center back seam, then matched up the off-center notches, basted, and sewed in place with a double seam. After trimming and pressing, I slipped it over my head and was in love. Great improvement.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I won’t sew it again, as four is enough. I haven’t made the pants yet, and may try those. I would recommend it.

Conclusion: Cute easy-to-wear top will make a great addition to my spring/fall wardrobe. The hemp/cotton seems like it will be too warm for summer wear.


So how did I get from “meh” to “hey, great!”? Embellishment.

I’m a student of Diane Ericson, Marcy Tilton, and Nancy Shriber. Diane has a great line of stencils, and leads great workshops in how to add a Wow factor to your garments with ink, paint, dye, and stenciling. Marcy Tilton has a line of silkscreens.

hempstencilI typically use Marcy’s silkscreens, but today I wanted to use a stencil. Diane’s “Global Shapes” stencil was hanging next to my cutting table, so I grabbed it, then found silver and russet metallic Lumiere paints, gloves, brushes and sponges, and some plastic lids. Grabbing a piece of cardboard to stick in-between the front and back, I was ready to embellish.

hempstripefronticonI marked the center point on the front and stamped the cool multi-line circle in silver. Then I decided it needed friends, so moved up one stripe and stamped another circle to the left of the original, then rotated the circle a little and stamped on to the right. But there was a large unadorned center in each circle group, so I poured some russet, and used three of the five en-point squares (center right in the photo) to add a little color to the center of each circle set.

hempstripebackiconOne thing I learned from Nancy Shriber that I practice with every piece of wearable art is, “You not only enter a room, you also leave.” I love putting a little something on the back of garments to surprise viewers when I turn around. I used the curved rectangle and just sponged around the edges, not through the entire rectangle. When that was dry, I stamped three more russet squares, then brushed a little with the russet in the lower righthand corner.

I was done, and I was in love. The striped shirt, by itself, was borrrring. The striped shirt with the metallic embellishments, but fun and—to my eye—chic.

I’ve always felt inept with stencils and paints, but today I felt very, very ept. This project, my friends, was a success!

(And—if I may brag—look at those perfectly matched seams!)

hempstripefronthempstripebackhempstripesidehempmatch

Me-Made-May ’14

hemlockI’m participating in Me-Made-May ’14.

What is it, you ask?

Me-Made-May’14 (MMM’14 for short) is a challenge designed to encourage people who sew/knit/crochet/refashion/upcycle garments for themselves to actually wear and love them. The me-made and self-stitched challenges have been taking place for over four years now and they work on both a personal and community level. The participants decide the specifics of their own challenge pledge, so that the month is appropriate and challenging for them …. A very common pledge is for a participant to aim to wear one self-stitched or refashioned garment each day for the duration of May 2014. The participants can also choose to document their challenge with daily photos (though this is in no way compulsory for taking part) and share them with other participants ….

You can click on the Me-Made-May ’14 button at the top of the right nav to read more.

I didn’t sign any pledges or swear any oaths. I’m more of a make-up-my-mind-and-do-it kinda gal. And my week leading up to this was so busy that I completely forgot until I was dressing to Cleveland on Saturday for my final Cleveland Orchestra Chorus performance of the season. I dug into my sweater drawer and pulled out a handknit sweater from two years ago to throw over Tacky Polyester Performance dress. (You know, don’t you, that I’m joking whenever I utter those words? That dress could be SOOOO much worse. It actually works just fine, although I stick my nose up at the polyester.)

Me-Made-May isn’t about making something during May, but I did make another Kristen’s Kimono Tee by Maria Denmark yesterday. And when it was done I didn’t like it. It’s going in a package to be sent to Amarillo. DS’s DGF has to learn to tell me if she doesn’t like something I make, otherwise her wardrobe of tees to throw on over leotard and tights or jeans is going to overflow. (If you don’t have a dancer in your framework of friends, get one quick! They’re the best. They always need another tee or sweatshirt or cardigan or scarf.)

I’m going to run downstairs when I’m done with this post and cut and sew a quick Grainline Hemlock Tee. That fabric has been sitting around for eight months and needs to be cut!! Then in the next couple of days I’m going to cut into the rayon/lycra knit print I picked up in Frankfurt, Germany, on my Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus tour last November.

Stay tuned, and see my Me-Made-May ’14 album on Facebook.

Another Butterick 5925

DSC_2870I posted earlier today about a piece of fabric I purchased from MarcyTilton.com that just wasn’t my color. It was then designated for a dear friend, and constructed with her in mind.

This is my first review of View A/B. My previous garment from this pattern was View C/D.

Pattern Description: Pullover top has neckline and pocket variations, seam detail, and shaped hemine. A: slightly draped neck and pocket bands.

Pattern Sizing: XSmall to XXLarge. I cut a Medium. Because this was for a long, lean woman who plans to wear it with leggings, I cut the body 2″ longer.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I only used the instructions for the neckband and pocket bands.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the design. Think the offset neckbands and pocket bindings are wonderful.

I don’t like the bottom of the pocket. Whether this happens because of the weight of the pocket or is by design, I wasn’t crazy about it. When double-stitching the hem, the stitching continues across the bottom of the pockets, but then the fabric above the stitching hangs down over the stitching. I don’t know the solution. Maybe stop the double-stitching at the pocket seams? This one is going to require some thinking.

Fabric Used: Polyester microfiber from Marcy Tilton. Wonderful fabric!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added two inches to the front and back. However—oops!—I neglected to add that same two inches to the godet. I stitched the godet in from the bottom up, stopping at the large circle. I stitched the side seam from just below the armscye to the sleeve hem. Then I drew a line from the side seam at the armscye down to the large circle and stitched that. I lost about 3″ in circumference just above the large circle, but it fits fine, and that’s all that matters!

Next time I’ll remember to add the 2″ to the godet!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is my second one. This version is for a friend. I’ll be making another View A for me!

Conclusion: Lovely, chic and yet comfortable. Another Tilton success.

DSC_2872DSC_2873DSC_2871

Update: Gift recipient all dresses and ready to hop on a plane for the long flights from Amarillo to Istanbul. She’s happy to have this very comfortable top to wear.
leslie

But Not For Me

allthreeThree tests gone bad very good for someone else, not me.

Test #1: A new-to-me designer and indie pattern maker, MariaDenmark. Open the website, sign up for her newsletter, and you receive a free downloadable pattern for her Kirsten Kimono Tee. DSC_2868Maria’s tagline is “for clothes you wear every day.”

A downloadable pattern, if you’ve never used one, is a PDF file you download, print on regular 8.5″x11″ copy paper, then tape together along printed lines. Some have only one or two sizes; some have all sizes.

DSC_2869I grabbed a remnant of the Gorgeous poly/rayon/lycra knit that I used for Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5925. The pattern doesn’t include seam allowances. Being lazy that day, I opted to just cut one size too large rather than tracing out with seam allowances. Yeah, I know. Dumb. I first cut the hem, then moved up to the neckline and cut the wrong size! Double dumb!

This error wasn’t something one could redo, and there are always friends clamoring for my garments. So I just sewed it up, tried it on, thought “yes, I’d like one of these in my size,” and finished it to give to a friend.

I will try more of Maria’s patterns. They truly are designs you can wear every day.

2014-05-05 11.00.06Test #2: I’ve sewn a couple of garments from Australia’s StyleArc. My only complaint is they only include one pattern size in the envelope, not like bigger companies that include 6 sizes or all sizes in one envelope. The multi-size practice lets you allow for figure variances. With a single size pattern (i.e. size 14 or size 16, not one-size-fits-all …) you have to compare your body measurements to the size chart on the pattern envelope. And then hope for the best.

When I have bought several StyleArc patterns, but this is only the second one I’ve made. The first one was from a loose-knit fabric that had a lot of stretch. The amount of stretch in a fabric affects the fit. Much stretch = loose; little stretch = tight.

2014-05-05 11.00.22I’ve been begging Marcy Tilton for months to try to find some silk jersey for her store. She finally got her hands on some black silk jersey and I grabbed several yards. This is exquisitely beautiful fabric. Here’s a similar silk knit from Marcy. The “hand” of the fabric—how it feels—is wonderful. You want several garments from this fabric, including a pair of pajamas!!

One of the StyleArc patterns I had purchased was the Cate’s Cousin top. It’s a t-shirt with a cowl neck and dropped shoulders, and I was sure it would look lovely on me.

2014-05-05 11.01.34The silk jersey is a fairly stable knit, easy to sew and with a reasonable amount of stretch. Not too much, not too little. I quickly made up the size 14, adding a little pocket inside the cowl drape so I could insert a quarter to weight it down. I didn’t really like the back neck binding method, but was in one of my I only have a few minutes to sew periods, so went ahead and finished it up. (See my little “quarter” pocket in the photo?)

When Spousal Equivalent got home from work, I tried it on. He looked at me, and the rolls of Winter Warmth around my waist and said, “Unh uh.”

The lovely Cate’s Cousin silk top was placed on a hanger and hung alongside the #1 test above.

DSC_2874Test #3: Color. I knit a beautiful cashmere cowl a few months ago. When I selected the Very Expensive cashmere yarn—online, of course—I thought the shades of red in the yarn would go with the beloved red top from Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5725 that I made last year. I finished the cowl, then put it on with the red top and just shook my head. Back to my favorite online fabric stores, I found a beautiful Garnet Red Parisian Microfiber Knit at MarcyTilton.com. I ordered two yards. When it came in, I held up up to the knit cowl and rejoiced. Then I held it up to my face, against my “autumn” coloring, and lost all my joy. This garnet red fabulous fabric was not for me.

So it was made up in Katherine Tilton’s Butterick 5925, the same pattern I used for the red top, but in View A, with round neck, twisted binding, and pockets on each side, with the same twisted binding. This pattern goes together quickly and is a very versatile style. It’s finished now, and the cowl looks great with it.

It, too, is on a hanger, with #1 and #2. The beneficiary flew in from Texas yesterday and will try them on tonight to see if she really really wants them. (She told me yesterday she doesn’t care how big they might be on her. She wants them!!)

The third time is the charm, right. Thinking twice about future fabric purchases, adding seam allowances to my next Kirsten Kimono Tee, and buying some size 16 patterns from StyleArc.