Me Made May ’13

imageFor wearable crafters, last month was Me Made May. I wanted to participate, but knew I was spending half of May away from home–eleven days in France and five days in North Carolina. So I participated in a quieter fashion than most.

If you’re a regular reader, you know I was obsessively sewing prior to my tour of France. If you scroll backwards through the posts written since the end of January, you’ll see the results of all that activity.

While in France, I believe there was only one day I didn’t wear something I had made. And on all days, I carried one of two tote bags I made for the trip. So I guess you could say I did, indeed, wear something I made every day.

AfterLikewise, on my North Carolina trip to celebrate my mother’s 100th birthday, I wore something I made every day. On the first day, when I arrived at her assisted living facility, she looked at me and said, “That’s a funny shirt.” It was Katherine Tilton’s Vogue 8793, a stripe for the back, an abstract stripe for the front and sleeves, and a mixture of the two for the double collar. I love it. My mother thinks it’s strange. Oh, well.

So I missed MMM’13 this year, but you can bet I’ll be there next year–especially now that I’ve got my Me Made wardrobe built up.

Here’s what I wondered last night while putting away the laundry: If all your handcrafted tops and pants won’t fit in your available storage, do you have too many clothes or not enough storage?

This Project in Use

DSC_1566A few days before leaving for France, I finished a long, flounced halter dress for my granddaughter, Ridley, who would turn 10 at the end of the month. Ridley’s mother’s family has a lot of height genes, so this child was wearing size 9 shoes and girls’ size 14 clothes when she was 9. I believe I”ll be making clothes for her for years to come.

As I said in the blog post about the dress construction, I had cut the dress too large, but was able to alter it in such a way that I will be able to make it larger in a few months when she hits another growth spurt.

RCandECShe loved that the skirt included pockets. I noticed, as she was walking onto the stage with her Upper Elementary (grades 4-6) class for the end of year performance, that she had her hands in the pockets and was using them to flip her skirt around even more. Loves the pockets! Loves the flounce! Loves the twirly girly skirt!

The best part of the construction project? She’s so appreciative. She is such a sweet not-so-little girl with such a big heart, and she is appreciative of everything I do for her.

Go ahead, Darlin’, wrap your grandma around your little finger.

(P.S. That’s her brother, over her right shoulder, in the red and cream striped t-shirt. My other darlin’.)

Geometric Goodies

GeoFullI was bored early one morning before leaving for France, and started exploring Mood Fabrics’ website while lying in bed, waiting for the Jazzman to wake up. Bad move. I found several things I had to have.

This one is called “Bright Multi Geometric Jersey Prints” and is a whole bunch of colors that look good on me. GeoNeckI knew I would use it for one of Marcy Tilton’s or Katherine Tilton’s tops they’ve designed for Vogue Patterns. So I wanted a complementary fabric to bind the neckline. Lookee here! The photo doesn’t do it justice. Look at how look it looks used to wrap the neck edge and ring the sleeves! That, my friends, is cool!

GeoPantsgeometricI decided to make Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8582, which you saw previously described here, along with the brown pants described in that same post.

The thing I love about how this pattern merged with the fabric is the seeming under-bust seam. The way the pattern drapes is, in my opinion, very flattering to my figure. And of course I love that!!

The top took about 4 hours, start-to-finish, to make. And this great new outfit is going into my suitcase for my quick trip to NC to help celebrate my mother’s 100th birthday.

Sidebar: Got a haircut today. And notice the pretty toenails in the picture. My brothers and I are hosting brunch on Sunday. In attendance will be: my mother’s best friend’s daughter, who was like my little sister as we were growing up; my daddy’s associate in his medical practice (He’s 85 now. That means he was about 33 when I first met him!); the friend across the lake my brothers used to waterski with; the mechanic who souped up my older brother’s race car, a ’56 Chevy, with which he won hundreds of drag race trophies; and on and on. People I’ve known since I was 5 years old or so.

My sister-in-law planned the whole event. I owe her, big time!

I think I’ll wear this to brunch.

A Travel Tote

MarcyBagOn the evening before wheels-up to France, I finished the tote bag to keep me sane on this trip!

My friend and fellow fiberphile, Mary Lou Alexander, recently destashed and transferred some goodies she no longer needed to my stash. I wanted a new bag for this trip and started digging into her upholstery fabric remnants. Voila! (as they say in France).

Marcy Tilton has designed a number of great handbag patterns for Vogue, but Vogue 8590 fit my needs. My small travel purse doesn’t carry enough things to get me through a long plane trip, so I always like to have a tote large enough to carry my travel purse, along with my carry-on that holds things I won’t need until I arrive but don’t want to put in checked baggage. (Camera, jewelry, adapter cables, etc.)

MarcyBagDetailI’m not going to say a lot about this bag, as I’m still not completely packed. But it’s perfect. It’s Very Big without feeling or appearing to be Very Big.

There’s one glitch in the pattern instructions, if you’re making the bag. The illustration for attaching the straps is incorrect. Look at the pattern envelope picture and the illustration on the pattern back and apply your own brilliant logic. I also didn’t quite get the pleat in the inside pocket. Next time I make this bag, I’ll add more and different pockets, but time was of the essence on this one.

The exterior is two upholstery fabrics. The interior is a remnant of lightweight silk noil that was lying around. The cord to tie it shut and the patch on the side pocket is one of Jas’s old ties I cut up. Why did I put that patch on the pocket? (No, it’s not a secondary pocket. It’s just a piece of silk handsewn into place.) I tried silkscreening a cool design on the pocket. Nope, the upholstery fabric was too bumpy to take it. So I decided to stencil a design over it. Again, nope. So how could I hide the mess of paint now sitting on the pocket? Why, put a patch over it.

I carried the bag with me last night to my son’s dress rehearsal for “Legally Blonde, the Musical” at the Youngstown Playhouse. What a great bag! Pockets on each end just the size for a water bottle. If I want to drop my phone into that pocket, it’s down deep and no nasty European pickpocket can get his hands on it.

And a final note: That bag I made of French-themed fabric? It felt too light for me, like it wouldn’t hold things I wanted it to hold. So I laid it over the end of the plastic-covered ironing board and painted it with diluted Crafter’s Pick Fabric Stiffener. Now it’s great and is being folded and tucked into my suitcase.

Au revoir!

P.S. After walking around Pittsburgh International Airport for a couple of hours: That exterior side pocket is the perfect height for one’s passport and boarding pass. Inspired!

But Not for Me

RfrontIn preparation for our upcoming vacation in France, my recent sewing frenzy has been totally focused on moi. But, ever the devoted Grandma, I saw a cute new McCall’s pattern and decided DGD needed a new dress for her upcoming end-of-year festivities.

Ridley will be 10 in a few weeks, but she got her height genes from her mother’s side of the family. She’s probably about 5’4″ and wears a girls’ 14 (although there are items in her closet in Misses Small). I did not ask her mother to measure her before cutting out the pattern–oops. I looked at RTW size charts, compared them to the pattern measurements, and cut a 14. The resulting unsewing and resewing could have been much worse!

imageI found a pretty 100% cotton sateen border print at Jo-Ann’s and bought all they had. I cut the widest ruffle out of the border so two ruffles would be floral with random dots, and e bottom ruffle would be all dots. This fabric was a dream to work with.

Before attaching the three ruffles, I had Ridley come over and try the dress on. Smart move! The bodice was a little roomy. The length–if I had used all three ruffles, as in the pattern, the dress would have dragged the floor.

imageI unsewed the bodice side seams and took each side seam in ⅝” at the armhole, tapering out to nothing at the raised waistline. I did not cut the excess seam allowance, figuring that in a year she’ll love the dress and I can redo that seam back out to the size 14.

RbackThe ruffles are attached in a new-to-me way. The top ruffle is attached to the skirt (note the shorter dress in the pattern illustration). Then the middle and bottom ruffles (bottom is several inches longer than middle) are basted together and gathered together onto a skirt extension. The extension is then sewn over the top ruffle gathering. (Picture a sandwich of skirt right side, ruffle wrong side, extension wrong side.)

RnecklineAs I needed less length, I omitted the top ruffle and the extension. I gathered the middle and lower ruffle to the skirt. The top ruffle and extension are being sealed into a plastic bag for next year. She’ll have another five inches on her by then, I’m guessing, and will still be able to use this cute dress once I redo the ruffle.

(Click the last photo to see the halter neck with ruffle treatment.)

She’s a dancer and a spinner, so this dress totally suits her personality. And she grinned when she saw the skirt has pockets. It doesn’t take much to please this sweet girl!

Now back to my personal frenzy. Three days to lift-off.

Second Verse, Better Than the First

brownslacksHot off the sewing machine today is another pair of Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8859. My first attempt occurred last week.

Today’s version proves one can improve upon success. I wore the gray slacks two or three times last week to test them out. Each time, I found myself pulling and tugging at the waist and hiking the pants up. The more I thought about it, the more I realized they were too big.

I purchased another piece of fabric from MarcyTilton.com, this time a cotton/poly/lycra blend from Theory. Marcy calls it Cocoa Canyon Stretch Woven. This has a sateen finish on the right side and is nice to touch and nice to wear. I cut it out last night and spent about three hours on it today. And now I have a great new pair of pants.

brownslacks1The lycra in this fabric is what really makes these pants. They’re skinny, yet very comfortable.

They don’t have a pocket, as it would destroy the line. But they’re going on vacation with me, so I really want a pocket. I snagged the pocket from Diane Ericson’s Panel Skirt and Vest (NLA). See that little external pocket on the skirt on the left in the picture? I sewed that up from a scrap of the pant fabric. There was no waistband or seam to sew it into, so I made a little “rod pocket” along the top (think of your curtains). panelI’ll make a little strip to go through that rod pocket with a buttonhole on each end. Then I’ll sew two flat buttons over the waist elastic, and I’ll have a nice pocket to tuck my spare Euros into.

The top I’m wearing? Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8582. I didn’t like the drapey extension, as the wrong side of this fabric is white and it just didn’t look good peeking out of this soft brown/taupe print. I cut the drapey extension off and left a vent in one side, sewing the other side closed. The cowl neck collar is stolen from StyleArc’s Amy Knit Top. The fabric is a soft rayon knit that came from Waechter’s Fine Fabrics in Asheville. (Every time I have to drive ten hours to Asheville to visit my mother, I reward myself with a quick side trip into Waechter’s.)

I made this top to wear to Italy last year, and it’s one of my favorites. Now that’s especially true with these great pants underneath.

Done *and* Completed

MulberryBothAfter writing about my feeling of exposure given the length of the front “ruffles” on Katherine Tilton’s Vogue 8691, I went back to my sewing table and gathered up all my scraps. Alas, there was not enough fabric to cut new, longer panels.

So I pulled out the pattern piece for the two front panels and cut a second panel to be attached to the bottom of the first panel. The piece started at the bottom edge of the front panel, extending down 2″ and up 1″—a total height, if you will, of 3″, with the bottom of the first panel extending down 1″ over the top of the second panel. Make sense?. That gave me enough length topstitch the first panel over the second with a double needle and wooly nylon in the bobbin.

Then I went out slipped the top on and went outside, interrupting the Jazzman’s mowing to ask his opinion. Still not right.

The back was good. The front was now good. But the side—not so much. We looking at the angles where each panel met its neighbor and decided I would start at the side seam and angle down to where the side panel meets the front seam. (The side panel—double wide—is attached to both the side front and side back. But the side back didn’t need any alteration.) I drew the pattern piece to start even with the bottom of the side panel at the side seam and drew it down to meet the bottom of the front panel at the side front/front princess seam.

Et voila!, as they say in France. I wore the top half-an-hour later to our friends’ retirement party, and heard lots of compliments. And I didn’t feel overexposed!

MulberryPanel

Done but not Completed

Mulberry1Here’s the top I finished yesterday. It’s another Katherine Tilton top, Vogue 8691.

I snapped a quick pic to send to Jas at work before I left to attend a performance of Mahler Symphony #2. As I was walking from the car to Stambaugh Auditorium, I realized I felt a tad exposed. I wasn’t comfortable with how short the front was. No, you can’t see my crotch, but it feels like you can. That just won’t do.

This morning I tried it on with my EF black slim washable stretch crepe pants, and didn’t like the look. That was going to be Solution Number One. But I prefer the look of this top with leggings, so I’m moving on to Solution Number Two: pool all my scraps from this top and figure out how to make the front “ruffle” 2″-3″ longer.

The fabric? Emma One Sock Mulberry 11 oz. rayon/lycra single knit jersey. Can you say heaven? This fabric is the softest, coziest fiber I’ve wrapped around my body in a long time. I want more-more-more!

Let me just tip my beret to Katherine again on this top. Those bottom “ruffles”? Topstitched into place! Brilliant!! No finishing required. And really, why would you need to? A) The knit doesn’t ravel. B) It’s at the bottom of the garment. Who’s going to ever notice that you have a raw edge there? NOBODY! The ruffle is constructed in five pieces. The back piece is gathered to make it ripple and flow as you walk. Easy-peasy construction.

The other feature I love about this pattern is the center and princess seam finishing techniques. Sew the seam once, press it open, then topstitch with double needle and wooly nylon in the bobbin. Cool look!

I cut a size 16 with no pattern alterations and love the fit—with the exception, of course, of the front length (which I wouldn’t have been able to figure out until I tried on the finished garment and walked around).

So it’s back to the sewing room, and I’ll post again when I solve this overexposure issue.