Last weekend the Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus (of which I am a member) performed “Porgy & Bess” highlights at Blossom Music Center in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. I loved every minute of rehearsal and performance. Northeast Ohio has been inundated with rain, heat and humidity this summer—this is my fifth year here and the worst summer in my experience. So we were all dripping with perspiration while rehearsing and performing on the outdoor stage. Two weeks of sitting in hot rehearsal rooms, culminating with an extra-hot stage, made me want cool clothes!

When I stopped at Waechter’s Fine Fabrics in Asheville’s Biltmore Village on my way to Hendersonville for my mother’s 100th birthday party, I found a wonderful knit to use for a summertime top. (Smooth segue, huh?!) I decided to make the sleeveless version of Marcy Tilton’s versatile top, Vogue 8582.

This is my fourth take on this pattern, but the first at the sleeveless version.
Previously I made View C, then View C with cowl variation, and View C with neckline band.

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted asymmetrical pullover tops A, B, C. A: contrast neck and armhole bands. B: neck band and unfinished three-quarter length sleeves. Wrong side of fabric will show on all bands. C: cowl “twisted” collar and long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:Misses 8-22; I believe I cut a 16.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the unusual collar variations. I don’t love the asymmetrical hem (I refer to it as that thing hanging down), but that’s just my personal preference. Actually, I tried on one version that a friend had made and think I’ll make the extended hem on the next one I make.

Fabric Used: A cotton-Lycra blend, very lightweight, almost tissue weight. Lovely for summer. From Waechter’s Fine Fabrics in Asheville, NC. Out of stock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The fabric I chose is printed on one side. On my version #2, when I tried to make the extended hem on a similar fabric, I learned I don’t like the unprinted side showing. This collar treatment on views A and B is designed so that the wrong side of the fabric shows.

I wanted the twisted collar, but didn’t want the wrong side, so I pondered for about five days. What I ended up doing was cutting two bands and layering them wrong sides together. That way, when I twisted the collar band, I still had the printed side showing. It was tough to do, as that collar band ended up being double the weight of the rest of the top. And keeping the two bands together for turning and stitching was tricky. I guess I could have basted them together before sewing, but I didn’t. When I finished the collar band, I was frustrated with the trickiness, so decided to just put a flat band on the armholes. It’s okay, but—after several wearings and many compliments—I really do love the look of that twisted collar. So my next version will be a fabric that’s solid color or somehow printed on the back side. (Oooh, an opportunity for screen printing or stenciling on the wrong side!)

I’m dissatisfied with the way I turn corners on double needle hems. That’s a challenge I’ll be working on for a while until I come up with a better technique.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is my fourth!

Conclusion: Lovely, flattering, summery top. One of my favorites to sew. You’ll be seeing more of these on my blog.

The pants pictured are Eileen Fisher pique crops from about ten years ago. The slides are my fave Walking Cradles Women’s Alva Slide in White Leather.

Two closeup views of the neck and armhole band treaments — left front, then right front. Click any photo for a close-up.

When I was in Santa Barbara in February, I picked up a bolt end that Marcy Tilton had on her clearance table. It was a cocoa-and-turquoise stripe—good colors for me—in a touchably soft cotton jersey. Ever since I finished the cocoa pants just prior to our vacation trip to France, I’ve been wanting to get this top made to go with the pants. The late-June/early-July weather in Northeast Ohio has been unusually hot and humid, and my wardrobe is low on cool tops. So here’s my cool top.

Pattern Description: Marcy Tilton T-shirt, Vogue 8671, View A

Pattern Sizing: Misses 8-22, I cut a 16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Basically

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, except for one omission that hampered me (see below).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Easy, fast, flattering. I like the little bit of assymetricality.

Fabric Used: Cotton jersey stripe from MarcyTilton.com.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I couldn’t figure out exactly what the pattern directions wanted me to do with the neck and front, so I just kinda played it by ear.

When Vogue copyeditors got their hands on the instructions for the neck finish, something got lost in the translation.

On the neck opening, you are instructed to pin the neckline band to the inside of the neck opening, right side of the band to wrong side of the neckline opening. The instructions say to stitch in place, then trim close to the stitching, and that the raw edge will be the neckline treatment. However, the illustration indicates a double needle is used (note depiction of zig-zag on wrong side and two topstitch lines on the right side). I didn’t notice the discrepancy between the written instructions and the illustration until I had already sewn the band onto the neck.

My solution: I stitched the band to the inside about 3/8″ from the edge, then trimmed and folded to the outside, pressed, and topstitched about 1/4″ from the edge. I finished by trimming the band fairly close to the topstitching. Because I’m working with a knit, it won’t ravel, and it looks pretty nice. (Going back after finishing and reading a couple of reviews on PatternReview, my method also prevents the potential problem that Madcap on PR mentioned: If you staystitch the neck edges first, then apply the band in the manner shown in the instructions and illustration, you’re going to have to go back and remove the row of staystitching to avoid have three lines of stitching—two straight and one not-so!)

I overthought the side front seam. On my fifth reading, I realize it was perfectly correct, but at the time of construction, my brain wasn’t following. So I wanted to make it look as much as possible like what I had done on the neck opening.

My solution: I sewed that seam with a single needle, wrong sides together. I sewed with the right side on top, favoring the left side (meaning I could see about 1/16″ of the left side extending out from under the right side as I was sewing) to ensure I didn’t have to trim the right side and didn’t have any of the right side peeking out when I was done. I pressed the seam allowance flat, then pressed it to the right and topstitched about 1/4″ from the seam. I’m satisfied with the look, and it matches the neck.

One more change—because I was working with a 1-yard piece, I didn’t have enough fabric for the long sleeves.

My solution: I measured the length of my favorite RTW cap sleeve at the shoulder and at the underarm seam. I drafted a new pattern piece using the pattern sleeve piece. At the shoulder seam marking, I measured down the RTW length plus 5/8″ seam allowance for the top seam allowance and 5/8″ hem allowance. At the underarm (side) seam, I measured down the 5/8″ seam allowance plus whatever my RTW measurement was plus the 5/8″ hem allowance. After sewing the side seam, I turned up the hem 5/8″ and topstitched. Ditto with the garment hem, just folded and topstitched. (At this point in the construction, I was rushing to finish and didn’t take the time to change to double needle. #lazy)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and Yes. Next time I’ll try following the instructions for the neck and front seam and the hems. :-/

Conclusion: I like the asymmetrical neckline. It’s a nice variation to standard round necklines. The fit of the shirt is nice and curvy – not boxy. Flattering. When I get rid of my five post-vacation pounds, it’ll look even better!

Here’s your reward for reading all the way through: We spend the 4th of July weekend every year at an old cottage at Madison Shores on Lake Erie, about 40 miles east of Cleveland. The weather wasn’t great this year, but Sunday evening we were rewarded with the best sunset I’ve ever witnessed in four years of weeks at the Lake. Enjoy!