Who Needs NYDJ?

DenimPantsSideWhen you’ve got an incredible pair of skinny jeans that fit like they were made for you (oh, wait …), why would you lay out $120 for a pair of pull-your-tummy-in jeans that include so much architecture that you have to wear a loose top to look good?

These are my new stretch denim jeans that will be perfect for all but the hottest two weeks of summer. The pattern is Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8859. This is my third take on this pattern (Take 1; Take 2). If you only knew how many pairs of pants I have made over the years in a futile attempt to get something I liked, you would understand how thrilled I am with this pattern. I think Marcy was looking at a photo of me when she designed these pants!

DenimPantsFabricAnd the fabric. Oh my gosh, the fabric! Ann Steves of Gorgeous Fabrics hit the ball out of the park when she found this lightweight stretch denim. (I’m very sad to tell you this fabric is sold out, but the description to the right is a very similar fabric. Go to GorgeousFabrics.com and search on “stretch denim” to see if she has more. If the description says “5 oz.”, you’re in luck!)DenimPantsLabel

DenimPantsBackWhat do I love about these pants? Several things:

  1. Easy and well-placed back patch pockets. They are placed and sized such that they don’t call attention to one’s rear end. (“Do these pockets make my butt look big?” No, they don’t!)
  2. The knee ease in the front pattern piece. March has strategically placed some pleats that give you room to move. I have to admit to having arthritic knees, and these pants do not make me feel hampered at all. I have room to bend the knees and no constriction on my movement.
  3. The elastic application at the waist. Brilliant! You know how tacky elastic-waist pants normally look? Old lady, right? Not these. Marcy designed the waist such that the front is flat, even though it’s elastic. The majority of the give is in the back waist and the front could—by the look—very easily be a waistband application. No tacky old lady pants, these!
  4. The fit. Already described – wonderful!

I’m pretty sure you haven’t seen the last of this pattern on these pages. I’m hooked on the comfort and style.

And they didn’t cost me $120!!

Every Musician Needs a [Pure] White Top

WhiteCowlTop1WhiteCowlTopDetailIf you read my earlier review of Vogue 8837, you saw the new top I made to accompany that skirt for performances with The Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus.

For any woman who is a) endowed, and b) lacking in Full Bust Adjustment skills, Vogue 8831 is One Fabulous Top. And when I slipped it on today with my Eileen Fisher washable stretch crepe straight-leg pants and a wide belt for today’s Fun With Opera performance at YSU’s Dana School of Music, I realized I had hit the jackpot with this top. It will be worn again and again.

(Click on any photo to view larger version.)


Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover top and tunic have double-layered, draped collar, side front/side back seams and stitched hems. C: narrow hem, back longer than front (wrong side shows). A, B, C, D: cup sizes. I made View C. (I have previously made View A with a collar band, and View A with an abbreviated cowl).

Pattern Sizing: 6-22, cup sizes A-D. I cut 16 and D.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the two-piece sleeves—very comfortable, very flattering. The neckline is a smidge cleavage-revealing.

Fabric Used: White knit; 95% rayon, 5% spandex, from Jo-Ann’s. I typically buy fabric online from fabric specialty stores, but I waited until the last minute to make this top and was balancing sewing time with music preparation and rehearsal time, and didn’t leave time to order anything. Hence, a run to Jo-Ann’s. In retrospect, this fabric is too lightweight for this top. I would love the top in the 11 oz. rayon jersey with 4-way stretch that Linda Podietz sells at EmmaOneSock.com. But this will do, especially if I make a drapey vest that will hide the visible seam allowances at the bust.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Raised the center front neckline 1″.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, yes, yes!

Conclusion: Vogue has hit the mark with their line of Custom Fit patterns. And this pattern hangs right in there with the rest. This will be a Tried ‘N’ True (TNT) pattern for me for years to come. Thanks, Vogue!


Pants: Eileen Fisher straight-leg Washable stretch crepe. Worth every dollar. Despite being pocketless (can’t carry anything in my pockets, but the pants have a smoother line), these are in my suitcase for every trip and every vacation. They’ve been all over Ireland, France, and Italy, and show no wear. They’ve sat on piano benches throughout Northeast Ohio, and show no wrinkles. They are, simply, the best!

Shoes: Naot again—these are “Afrodita.” Bought these for our vacation in Italy last year, and wore them all over France this year. Naot makes the most comfortable shoes.

Katherine Tilton’s Easy-Peasy Skirt

KatherineSkirtMusicians can never have too many black garments, right? I already own four black skirts. Two fit me. None please me. V8837SkirtSo for my Blossom Music Center performance last weekend with The Cleveland Orchestra and the Blossom Festival Chorus, I wanted a new skirt. I wanted it to be easy to create. And it had to be washable.

Ever since making a couple pair of Marcy Tilton’s fast and easy pants (Vogue 8859 – take 1, take 2), I’ve been wanting to try Katherine TIlton’s pants and skirt pattern, Vogue 8837. It looked like it would go together quickly and be very comfortable for standing and sitting on stage for an hour.

(Click on any photo to view larger version.)


Pattern Description: Skirt has self-lined yoke, overlapped side seams, and narrow hem. Close-fitting, elastic waist, and topstitching.

Pattern Sizing: XS – XXL. I agonized over this. In Marcy’s pants, the size 16 looks like it was made for me. I thought about cutting a L, but was afraid it would be too small. I cut XL, and it’s extra-large on me. (Duh!) When one is working with a knit, tissue-fitting the pattern just doesn’t get it – y’know?! I did not recut or take it in to a Large as this will be fine and ultra comfortable for on stage. I won’t wear it “in public” and will order more fabric to make one in size Large for wearing out to dinner with friends.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the ease of construction. Love the yoked waist. Dislike the overlapped side seams.

ClothMerchantsskirtFabric Used: Great lightweight Poly-Rayon-Spandex ponte from The Cloth Merchants site. I will be buying more of this fabric!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I do not believe one can fold and stitch the hem first, then do an overlapped seam and get a clean, smooth finish. My logical, programmer’s brain objects. KatherineSkirtHeelsI didn’t like this method, with all due respect to Katherine. I tried different methods on each side seam, knowing I would always be standing at the back of the chorus when wearing this skirt, so no one would see the seams. (The perfectionist in me is cringing.)

Here’s what I will do next time, and what I recommend for a nice clean finish: I would press the hems in from lower dot to lower dot, side to side. I would then stitch the side seams, right sides together from the waist to the lower dot, and press open. Then I would either baste or fuse the hems. Then I’d topstitch with a single needle on the front from waist, down around hem, and back up the other side to the waist on both front and back, and ditto on the back. This first row of stitching would be frac14;” from the seam and from the edge of the hem. I would then do a second row of stitching ⅛” away, duplicating that first row. On the inside, I’d trim the seam allowance to the second row of stitching. I’d also add some sort of reinforcing stitching at bottom of the side seam so an extra long gait wouldn’t rip that opening.

I love the elastic waist with the elastic attached with one row of stitching inside the yoke. This is very similar to my favorite Eileen Fisher elastic waist pants. I don’t know what type of elastic EF uses on those pants—when mine get worn enough, I’ll cut the yoke open and see. Katherine’s pattern calls for ¼” clear elastic. If you rely upon Jo-Ann’s for your notions, you’re out of luck. They no longer carry the ¼”, only a ⅜” elastic. But that worked fine for me. The skirt—even in my oversized version—feels very secure and very comfortable and very easy to walk in when climbing stairs from the rehearsal hall and processing onto the stage.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Absolutely yes and absolutely yes. And the pants in this pattern, also!

Conclusion: Highly recommended skirt and pant pattern from the brilliant Katherine Tilton. Try it; you’ll like it!


Okay, the top picture is frumpy. But when you’re of a certain age and have arthritic knees, you wear frumpy shoes. These Naots are frumpy and absolutely the most comfortable shoes I’ve ever had on my feet. There are four of us in the chorus who wear these shoes. They are not cheap, and they’re worth every penny. I’ve worn them all over Europe on three trips, and wouldn’t trade them for the world.

And I posted a second picture for you showing the skirt with heels. Isn’t it lovely? No frump involved! If I were twenty years younger, I would wear these pumps for performances. Alas.

Thanks, Katherine, for this great design!

Would you like to know how the orchestra and chorus did last weekend?
Review in the Cleveland Plain Dealer
Review at ClevelandClassical.com

Another Summery Top in a Southwestern Print

SouthwesternTopWhen ordering several pieces of fabric for tops recently from Emma One Sock, I fell in love with this print. The EOS site describes it as “a soft and buttery, very lightweight rayon/spandex jersey.” Buttery. Absolutely. There’s a sheen to this fabric makes me think it’s silk and spandex, not rayon and spandex. Soft. AzruelKnitLike buttah!

I decided to make it in Vogue 8831, which allows me to fit for cup size. I chose View A for the cap sleeves, and decided to just to a neck band rather than the voluminous cowl. V8831I had just made this pattern (not yet blogged) in View B, with long sleeves, out of a rayon/lycra blend I picked up at Jo-Ann Fabrics. I needed wanted a new top for the Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus performance at Blossom last Sunday, and had a Jo-Ann’s coupon to make it an inexpensive top. However, the cowl was overwhelming. I pfitzed with that cowl all day in the heat and humidity. The size of the cowl and inherent heaviness (with that amount of fabric) make it not ideal for a lightweight fabric.

For the neckline, I cut the pattern an inch higher at center front, then curved out to the sides of the neckline. I measured the neck opening and consulted Marcy Tilton’s excellent Threads Magazine article, “Not Your Ordinary T-Shirt,” to determine how long to make the neck band. I cut the band on the cross-grain to pick up a row of green figures in the print. Marcy says to cut ¾ to ⅞ of the neck measurement. I took into account the lack of stretch on the crosswise cut, and—for a 33.5″ opening—cut 27 or 27.5″, which comes out to about 82%. I seamed it, folded it in half, and sewed it to the right side of the opening, then turned and top-stitched from the outside at about ¼”.

SouthwesternNeckbandThe lightweight fabric was rather delicate to work with. I sewed all the seams slowly and carefully, then zipped through the second row of stitching. (The instructions call for double-stitched seams.)

The more I touched the fabric during construction, the more anxious I was to finish the top. I left DSO sitting in the upstairs family room after dinner last night while I stitched the hems. Then I raced upstairs to slip it on, and immediately began frowning. It looked awful on me!!! This from a pattern I’d made, now, three times and with whose fit I was very happy.

SouthwesternCloseupEvidently this particular knit has more stretch than the cotton and rayon pieces I’d used for the previous tops. (Number 1) I needed to remove an inch on the front and back of each side seam—a decrease of a total of 4″ around the body.

After running lots of errands today, I came home, removed some topstitching, and resewed the sides, starting at the seamline at the waist and tapering in to the 1″ mark at the armhole.

Run to the mirror. Slip the top on. Very. Big. Smile.

Success!

This fabric calls out to be all sorts of things, not the least of which would be the yummiest sleepwear you can imagine. I’m so sad it’s sold out! I’ll keep watching the EOS site to find a similar lightweight knit. It will be worth the weight!


The pants in the picture are an Eileen Fisher washable stretch crepe similar to this. However, the elastic in the waist is about ½” rather than 2″ as in the description in the link.

The shoes are Mephisto Uldina, in their Mobils collection. Ultra comfortable to walk in.

The quilt on the wall behind me is by my friend, ultra-talented fiber artist Mary Lou Alexander.

Summertime!

LimeCollarLast weekend the Cleveland Orchestra and Chorus (of which I am a member) performed “Porgy & Bess” highlights at Blossom Music Center in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. I loved every minute of rehearsal and performance. Northeast Ohio has been inundated with rain, heat and humidity this summer—this is my fifth year here and the worst summer in my experience. So we were all dripping with perspiration while rehearsing and performing on the outdoor stage. Two weeks of sitting in hot rehearsal rooms, culminating with an extra-hot stage, made me want cool clothes!

When I stopped at Waechter’s Fine Fabrics in Asheville’s Biltmore Village on my way to Hendersonville for my mother’s 100th birthday party, I found a wonderful knit to use for a summertime top. (Smooth segue, huh?!) I decided to make the sleeveless version of Marcy Tilton’s versatile top, Vogue 8582.

This is my fourth take on this pattern, but the first at the sleeveless version.
Previously I made View C, then View C with cowl variation, and View C with neckline band.

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted asymmetrical pullover tops A, B, C. A: contrast neck and armhole bands. B: neck band and unfinished three-quarter length sleeves. Wrong side of fabric will show on all bands. C: cowl “twisted” collar and long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:Misses 8-22; I believe I cut a 16.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the unusual collar variations. I don’t love the asymmetrical hem (I refer to it as that thing hanging down), but that’s just my personal preference. Actually, I tried on one version that a friend had made and think I’ll make the extended hem on the next one I make.

Fabric Used: A cotton-Lycra blend, very lightweight, almost tissue weight. Lovely for summer. From Waechter’s Fine Fabrics in Asheville, NC. Out of stock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The fabric I chose is printed on one side. On my version #2, when I tried to make the extended hem on a similar fabric, I learned I don’t like the unprinted side showing. This collar treatment on views A and B is designed so that the wrong side of the fabric shows.

I wanted the twisted collar, but didn’t want the wrong side, so I pondered for about five days. What I ended up doing was cutting two bands and layering them wrong sides together. That way, when I twisted the collar band, I still had the printed side showing. It was tough to do, as that collar band ended up being double the weight of the rest of the top. And keeping the two bands together for turning and stitching was tricky. I guess I could have basted them together before sewing, but I didn’t. When I finished the collar band, I was frustrated with the trickiness, so decided to just put a flat band on the armholes. It’s okay, but—after several wearings and many compliments—I really do love the look of that twisted collar. So my next version will be a fabric that’s solid color or somehow printed on the back side. (Oooh, an opportunity for screen printing or stenciling on the wrong side!)

I’m dissatisfied with the way I turn corners on double needle hems. That’s a challenge I’ll be working on for a while until I come up with a better technique.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is my fourth!

Conclusion: Lovely, flattering, summery top. One of my favorites to sew. You’ll be seeing more of these on my blog.


The pants pictured are Eileen Fisher pique crops from about ten years ago. The slides are my fave Walking Cradles Women’s Alva Slide in White Leather.

Two closeup views of the neck and armhole band treaments — left front, then right front. Click any photo for a close-up.

LimeLeftFrontLimeRightFront

Something for a Hot and Humid Summer

Stripe8671When I was in Santa Barbara in February, I picked up a bolt end that Marcy Tilton had on her clearance table. It was a cocoa-and-turquoise stripe—good colors for me—in a touchably soft cotton jersey. Ever since I finished the cocoa pants just prior to our vacation trip to France, I’ve been wanting to get this top made to go with the pants. The late-June/early-July weather in Northeast Ohio has been unusually hot and humid, and my wardrobe is low on cool tops. So here’s my cool top.

Pattern Description: Marcy Tilton T-shirt, Vogue 8671, View A

Pattern Sizing: Misses 8-22, I cut a 16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Basically

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, except for one omission that hampered me (see below).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Easy, fast, flattering. I like the little bit of assymetricality.

Fabric Used: Cotton jersey stripe from MarcyTilton.com.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I couldn’t figure out exactly what the pattern directions wanted me to do with the neck and front, so I just kinda played it by ear.

When Vogue copyeditors got their hands on the instructions for the neck finish, something got lost in the translation.

On the neck opening, you are instructed to pin the neckline band to the inside of the neck opening, right side of the band to wrong side of the neckline opening. The instructions say to stitch in place, then trim close to the stitching, and that the raw edge will be the neckline treatment. However, the illustration indicates a double needle is used (note depiction of zig-zag on wrong side and two topstitch lines on the right side). I didn’t notice the discrepancy between the written instructions and the illustration until I had already sewn the band onto the neck.

My solution: I stitched the band to the inside about 3/8″ from the edge, then trimmed and folded to the outside, pressed, and topstitched about 1/4″ from the edge. I finished by trimming the band fairly close to the topstitching. Because I’m working with a knit, it won’t ravel, and it looks pretty nice. (Going back after finishing and reading a couple of reviews on PatternReview, my method also prevents the potential problem that Madcap on PR mentioned: If you staystitch the neck edges first, then apply the band in the manner shown in the instructions and illustration, you’re going to have to go back and remove the row of staystitching to avoid have three lines of stitching—two straight and one not-so!)

Stripe8671frontI overthought the side front seam. On my fifth reading, I realize it was perfectly correct, but at the time of construction, my brain wasn’t following. So I wanted to make it look as much as possible like what I had done on the neck opening.

My solution: I sewed that seam with a single needle, wrong sides together. I sewed with the right side on top, favoring the left side (meaning I could see about 1/16″ of the left side extending out from under the right side as I was sewing) to ensure I didn’t have to trim the right side and didn’t have any of the right side peeking out when I was done. I pressed the seam allowance flat, then pressed it to the right and topstitched about 1/4″ from the seam. I’m satisfied with the look, and it matches the neck.

Stripe8671sleeveOne more change—because I was working with a 1-yard piece, I didn’t have enough fabric for the long sleeves.

My solution: I measured the length of my favorite RTW cap sleeve at the shoulder and at the underarm seam. I drafted a new pattern piece using the pattern sleeve piece. At the shoulder seam marking, I measured down the RTW length plus 5/8″ seam allowance for the top seam allowance and 5/8″ hem allowance. At the underarm (side) seam, I measured down the 5/8″ seam allowance plus whatever my RTW measurement was plus the 5/8″ hem allowance. After sewing the side seam, I turned up the hem 5/8″ and topstitched. Ditto with the garment hem, just folded and topstitched. (At this point in the construction, I was rushing to finish and didn’t take the time to change to double needle. #lazy)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and Yes. Next time I’ll try following the instructions for the neck and front seam and the hems. :-/

Conclusion: I like the asymmetrical neckline. It’s a nice variation to standard round necklines. The fit of the shirt is nice and curvy – not boxy. Flattering. When I get rid of my five post-vacation pounds, it’ll look even better!

Here’s your reward for reading all the way through: We spend the 4th of July weekend every year at an old cottage at Madison Shores on Lake Erie, about 40 miles east of Cleveland. The weather wasn’t great this year, but Sunday evening we were rewarded with the best sunset I’ve ever witnessed in four years of weeks at the Lake. Enjoy!

LakeSunset

Knitting Update

BlanketEarly this year, after living in my tiny home office for four months, my newly-separated son got an apartment. While trying to figure out what all he would need to make this new place his home, he selected a Lion Brand slip-stitch sampler throw as his blanket-of-choice to keep warm while reading or watching TV on the couch.

I bought the kit sold by Lion Brand and started work on this rather complex project. This summer I’ve had several extended periods of time that I was able to devote to this project. I’m now on the fourth block, and it gets easier with each passing row, log and block.

I have completed three of the six blocks. With the gift of more dedicated time, the blanket should be completed before it’s needed with the onset of cold weather in the fall. The more I work on this, the more I like the colors, and the more I think this is going to be a great cuddling blanket for my son and my grandchildren.

Poster City

PrintingFrontYesterday I finished another version of Katherine Tilton’s Vogue 8817, View A. I am in love with this top. I think the neckline is one of the most flattering necklines I’ve ever worn. You may remember I made a top out of this pattern/view before the trip to France.

The fabric is another Emma One Sock delight that Linda calls “Poster City.” The fabric is a 96% rayon/4% lycra blend that feels like buttah. This print is a little out of the norm for me, and I absolutely love it. Would you believe that, prior to last summer, I didn’t own a print top?! My wardrobe is richer for the patterns Marcy and Katherine Tilton have been designing!

PrintingBackIf you look at the blog post about the previous making of this top, you’ll see the contrasting insert in the back. This time I wanted the back to be all made of the main fabric. I overlaid the two pattern pieces to cut out the back. Look at the image in the mirror here. That inset is what I was trying to do away with this time. Success!

The contrast fabric is a great black mesh that I’m pretty sure came from Marcy Tilton’s fabulous fabric store. I used it for the band around each sleeve (I love how you can see the underlying print through the mesh.), for the trim on the neck, and for the little inset on the underbust seam across the front. (Cut a piece 1½” wide ((½” seam allowance times 2) + (¼” times 2 for the folded edge peeking out)), fold in half, then hold between the front and lower front pieces when seaming.) PrintingSleeveWhat you get is a ¼” piece peaking out of the seam. Just a nice little bit of seam definition.

PrintingCloseupInstead of sewing the folded neck band in a circle, sewing it onto the neck opening, then flipping it up and topstitching, I bound the edge. I cut a strip 2½” (⅝” x 4) wide and the same length as the neck band pattern piece. I seamed only the right shoulder, then stitched this neck band onto the neck opening with a ⅝” seam, right sides together, stretching it to fit the opening. Then I wrapped the strip to the wrong side and tucked the last ⅝” up under the “facing.” I hand-sewed it into place (because I love handwork – you wouldn’t have to do this…) and then topstiched ⅜” from the seam.

Since we believe summer may come to Northeast Ohio at some time in the next 14 weeks, I’ll make this top again, drafting cap sleeves for the hot and humid days. I do love this top!!